Hi all, I'm new to the Yota scene as a friend "TrailTrek2Fish" got me into it. I picked up an '86 Turbo 4runner recently and it failed smog due to the timing. It was set at 10* and needs to be at 5*. So, after attempting to adjust the timing by rotating the distributor, we found that it would only go down to 8*. We then set the crank TDC @ 5*, took the distributor off and tried to readjust the distributor by 1 tooth. Reinstalled everything and the timing maxed out at 3*. So, we took the distributor off again, shaved the hole of the distributor to obtain more adjusting value, and put everything back together. Now the issue began...the car won't start! At first attempt, there was a backfire from the muffler. Now it just turns over but does not fire up.

Heres a list of everything we tried...
1. Took the distributor off again, checked everything over, and reinstalled it. Still wouldn't start.
2. Replaced the cap, rotor, and spark plugs with new items. Still wouldn't start.
3. Checked to make sure all four plug wires were getting spark.
4. Checked that the fuel pump is working.
5. Checked all fuses
6. Theres a smell of fuel emitting from the exhaust

Now, Ive read another post and people mentioned the distributor being out 180*. What exactly is this and how to check for it? When I took the distributor off, I noticed there was a "hole/marking dot" on one of the teeth which lines up with the rotor. When installing the unit, I made sure that the rotor was pointing to 12 o"clock and it would rotate to about 10 o'clock-ish once pushed in all the way. Could my distributor be out 180*?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks Yotatech!!!

 

Yup, we tried all of the above. Maybe there is a fuse or relay that we overlooked? I have to look into the 180* distributor setting. I also have to look to see if the coil is on its last leg. I'll probably pull mine and see if it fires up to prove or disprove his coil as the culprit because it seemed like a weak spark when we checked it. Any ideas would be awesome. Thanks y'all.

 

You are going to need to pull the valve cover. Verify the timing chain is intact, then rotate the crank untill both cam followers on cylinder number one are free and loose (closed, tdc on a compression stroke). If you over shoot remember you have to go all the way around four times, you can not just back the crank up as there is no guarantee the cam will follow due to the chain tensioner.

Now verify the timing mark is in the correct position at 0°. If it is not at zero you may have spun the pully on its bushing. (it is rubber and can give out allowing the pully to rotate.)

If you are at zero on the oil pump reinstall the distributor, per the manual. Rotor straight up at twelve, and it rotates backwards.

The hole for the tensioner bolt should align near the center. There is plenty of adjustment room in the factory unit.

Things that could make it seem wrong are an improper bolt size, a bent bolt, an out of round or marred face on the distributor tensioner hole.

It is worth double checking the mil/cel is flashing when you jump the connection. If it's not in diagnostic/base-timing mode you will need to clean the contacts or repair the wires.

 

Ok cool, we'll look into it. Thanks Co_94_PU.

 

PS. 180° out/off refers to putting the distributor in while at tdc Exhaust stroke. Kind of a mythnomer (think that's the right usage but it's late and I'm tired)...

 

Yeah, that's probably what we did. We'll check that before pulling off the valve cover.

 

Thanks Co_94_PU. As suspected, the distributor was indeed 180* out. Our rookie mistake, LOL! She's back up and running.

 

Sounds like you guys nailed it.
Just for future reference here's the way I do it...Yota's, Chevy's... doesn't matter...
Pull the valve cover.
bump the engine over via crank pulley or starter.
watch the #1 cyl intake open, then close. then turn the pulley by hand until your crank pulley mark reaches 5 degrees on the timing scale. (yes I said 5*, not zero)
you are now at 5 degrees advanced from TDC.
Put the disti in with the rotor pointing directly to the #1 plug wire on the cap.
You are all set. NO chance of being 180 off because you watched the intake and compression stroke of #1 cyl happen.

I don't think you can make the engine run 180 out.

 

Check that math...There are two strokes per crank revolution so from TDC, twice around will bring you back to TDC. Four puts you at TDC once again. You can back up as long as you go well past it and approach from the mark from the correct clockwise rotation. As long as the chain is driven from the crank and under tension you'll be fine. If the tensioner were on the drive side of the chain, cam timing would advance with tensioner movement.

 

Good catch, four stroke
Intake, piston down.
Compression, piston up.
Power, piston down.
Exhaust, piston up.

But I wouldn't and don't trust that little spring to keep the chain slack free. Best to just go back around

 

hes saying that if the tensioner is worn out, the chain might slip on the cam gear when rotating backwards.

EDIT: And this is why im thankful Co has stuck around these parts as long as he has. Hes chocked full of info and willing to help. Especially with these RTE motors.

 

Yup, I should've known better. LOL. Thanks everyone for the help!

 

Thanks again everyone for all your help. As Trailtrek has advised we were able to get her up and running again today!

 

stick around a while and make a build thread! i wanna see a fellow turbo rig.

 

Well no. And maybe yes. Gravity should hold it onto the cam, but it could drop off the crank the I guess.

More along the lines of the cam doesn't move untill you take up all the slack (compress the tensioner fully), you can not simply rotate back to 5° btdc you'll have to go well past that.

I have a video I can not get to complete upload and processing that demonstrates this. But it is simple to recreate. If you pull off the distributor cap and rotate the crank backwards with a wrench you'll see the lack of movement in the top end.

 

Unless there is physical damage to the timing cover, the chain cannot come free of the crank gear far enough to slip a tooth.

There is a rib cast into the timing cover that prevents the timing chain from dropping off the gear.