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Seriously for about the same effort and cost they could have hacked out the whole lower rad crossmember and replace it with square tube.
That bar is part of the actual frame - it holds the left and right sides in alignment
Cutting it IMHO means a new alignment etc.
The "better" option, had I known, is to use the FROF patch panel.
Ideally, I would pull everything back off again. and really grind away at the front cross member, and then weld in the FROF panel.... while searching for a clean frame.
That weld is enough to hold things together for a bit.
Its a weekend "on road" vehicle, not a daily driver (I actually ride my bicycle to work most days)
You are defending a sloppy job at maintaining structural integrity on a weekend warrior by not wanting to spend $75 on an alignment that you probably wouldn't need of you measured before and after you cut and spliced.
As has been said, welds need clean steel to be effective and durable. Your shop bolted a support to a flange with bad metal as a base.
Good luck to you. I would find a different shop for future repairs.
You do know The piece you linked to is for added support for a winch bumper that might really get used instead of looking fancy at the mall
Indeed I do.
Brian / FROF makes some neat HD parts / axle housings etc.
The "booger weld" patch is just to keep things together until I cut the mess out and get the FROF piece welded in.
BTW - only the front corners of the frame were rusted bad.
I had a Downey front skid on there, and the corners of the frame were exposed to the NorthEast Road Salt in the winters (and I drove ALOT in the winter).
The rest of the frame metal is in decent shape, including the top and bottom of that cross member, and the front of the cross member in the middle.
Thanks for all the feedback with respect to the truck.