So first off I wanna say thanks to everyone, I've been lurking for close to a year. I have 95 3vze yota that I've replaced the headgaskets on and it's never quite run right. Low power, poor acceleration.

Now last week I tried taking it on a 40 min drive and it did pretty bad, had drive with the O/D off because it would lose power in those gears. Finally didnt overheat thoigh. When I came back out the next morning though, no start. But it cranks over just fine and I when I checked the spark plugs, none were wet. I also ran part of a seafoam can through so I assumed it's fuel then but the filter I changed and its still not running. Also when I disconnected the fuel hose coming out of the pressure regulator, nothing much came out. However I can hear the fuel pump doing its normal whirring when I turn the key but when I jump up B+ and FP 1, nothing.

I'm wondering if you guys know of any more tests I can do on it. Mostly centered around fuel, is the problem I think.

Thanks

 

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First, you shouldn't hear the fuel pump doing it's normal whirring by turning the key, until you turn it all the way to Start. I can't hear the fuel pump over the starter, so I'm not sure how you could.

You SHOULD be able to hear the pump with key-on and FP jumped to B+. With the jumper in, you should get about 1/2 liter / min out of the fuel return line from the fuel pressure regulator (engine not running, though that shouldn't make any difference). If you have problems with the jumper test, use your multimeter to check for 12v on B+.

Eyeball the connectors to the injectors. You're only going to be able to do that on the left side, but it's a start. By year 21 those connectors get very brittle, and don't always hang on tight enough.

If the fuel pressure is good and you have spark, try some (but only as a last resort) a squirt of starter fluid. If it will run on that, you're not getting fuel into the cylinders.

 

I think the sound I hear might just be the antenna retracting motor? My antenna is bent so wouldn't know.

I agree about the injectors, I changed the headgasket and just about all of them cracked and the clips that keep them in place broke. I had them held down with zipties. I've been trying to find a way to replace them but I couldn't find anything but soldering on new connectors. Ideas?

And when I pull the hose off the regulator nothing comes out for sure when I crank it. If it is that, could the fuel pump have caused the loss of power? I have read they're a bitch to change.

Also some threads were suggesting that a broke cold start would cause that as well. Is there a difference btw spraying starter fluid and throttle body cleaner to get the engine going? And where would I spray if it's sealed? You can't spray in the afm before the filter.


So many questions lol thanks for the response!

 

So you definitely have no fuel pressure in the rail. But before you drop the tank to get to the pump, jumper FP to B+ (key-on) with the fuel return line to a good container (one with volume markings will tell you rate; my wash bucket has such markings). If that doesn't work, use your multimeter to check for 12v on B+ (you will lose B+ with a bad EFI fuse, EFI relay, etc.)

The rest of your questions are good, but irrelevant if the fuel pump isn't running.

 

OK that sounds like a good idea, I've actually been having some problems with the electrical system. PO had the wrong cables jerry rigged in and sometimes they pull out and cut off all power to the inside. I can't make a new because no one has the piece I need.


This is the wire I'm talking about. My efi fuse isn't blown so I'm thinking this one just finally gave up and stopped working altogether. Any place I can get one of those?

Also if I check the b+ do I ground on the negative batt, or the body, or does it matter?

Thanks for the reply. I've been so focused on it being my hg replacement that I didn't really think about the other problems.

 

Looks like a fusible link 82991-35020 http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/show...ssembly=518028

So you've actually checked and you're no longer getting power through it? It's not the kind of part to replace at random (heck, no parts are the kind of part to replace at random).

 

So the battery's position means that the link is not long enough and so it's been pulling it out for awhile like when you bend headphone wires. Ive been wanting to change it just couldnt find the part. Now that I think about it, it should have been the first thing I checked. Ugh.

As far current through it, it definitely was flaky when I checked it last.I'll check tmr and give you an update. Is there anyway I can just pry off the square and crimp it on to a another wire? The part is pretty pricey and will take till at least till the 20th, even through the stealership.

 

Fyi, it's not long enough because a fender bender bent the fuse box area back a lil. The PO fixed it so you can't tell from the outside but I think the accident is why he started jimmying the electrical system.