So I've read about the different threads on installing aftermarket speakers in the 3rd gen Runners.

It looks like I'll need about 3/4" MDF spacer for the CDT 6.5" speakers to fit in front. Where did you install the crossover (in the door or mounted near the door)? I forgot to look, but I thought there is a crossover for the front speakers since I recall only 2 pairs (1 for right and 1 for left) for the front audio speakers.

Anyways, I didn't find a thread on how the owners got the 6.5" to fit in the rear? Does it require a lot of hacking? Definitely involves MDF.

J

 

I put my crossovers under the drivers seat, but I've seen people put them in the door itself wrapped in a ziplock bag.

 

Are you planing on cut a hole on the plastic inner shield? I have 5.25" in rear, & I barely has enough space to allow rear window to go down fully. You will either have to cut a hole on the plastic inner shield, or you will have to live with rear window not able to go down fully with a normal 6.5".

 

It looks like the trouble varies with the year of the gen... i.e., putting 6 1/2" in my 96 was a breeze - no issues with sheet metal, though I had to space them about 1/2" using MDF.

But, in a friend's 99, I had to cut the door sheetmetal for the rears but the front's went right in. I had to use 1/2" spacers on all four doors.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I get to use my new die grinder on the rear door sheet metal

What's the diameter of the mdf you used? Home Depot sells pre-cut MDF circles and I thought it might safe a little time.

J

 

I did her's with a Dremel tool, but a real grinder would have been a WHOLE lot easier!


Oh man.. I totally winged it.

I put the speakers face-down on the board, traced a circle the size of the face, measured the depth of the lip (from the outter edge of the speaker face to the point where the angle of the frame meets the face), then used the "string and pencil" method to create a compass and drew an inner circle at that diameter.

I cut out the inner circle, then around the outside of the outer circle and had a ring.

The end result was pretty fragile (I actually used pressboard, not real MDF) but it worked well enough to get the spacers in there - once. I broke a couple while doing this, so I figure if I pull them out they'd break.

 

hey, i may not be the most versed in the 3rd gens, but you can fit a 6.5" component in the rear passenger doors no prob. Just be creative, cut a little bit of the subframe behind the door, trim the plastic on the inside of the door panel, and use some 1/2 inch mdf or hdf to build whatever type of mounting panel you need.

This is not brain surgery...trust me...I have run 7" subs in the rear doors of past runners...good luck.

Billy

 

Hey a little more than a year ago I put a pair of CDT ES 620's into the front doors of my 2001 4Runner. They are BIG components. I'm pretty sure I used 1/2" MDF and even with that, I think the fit was close. Not only the thickness of the MDF ring, but the diameter/width of it b/c if it gets to wide, you'll be hitting the inner door panel where it tapers off. So close that I'm not sure 3/4" will allow room.

I had to trim some of the plastic off the inside of the door panel even.

I put the x-overs in the door within a ziplock bag securely adhered to the inside of the door metal. I put the amp and fuse blocks under the driver's seat held in place into a piece of wood under the carpet with security screws....

GREAT speakers.

Good luck, it was a fun and rewarding install.

 

So for those of you who use 1/2" MDF and 6.5" speakers, did you drill holes for the mounting screws to the speaker housing and then another set for the speaker itself?
Or did you use a long screw and use the 4-holes in the speaker bezel to mount the speaker and mdf?
Did you use any silicon or sealant to make sure it's air tight?

Just curious on your approaches.

J

 

I used a single set of screws to get through the speaker bezel, through the MDF and into the door panel; I didn't use any silicon in the install.

I took the approach that since I wasn't padding down the door with foam in order to stop the interior from rattling, nor did I seal up the rest of the holes in the door, then I _didn't_ want to create an air-tight cavity. Doing so would cause the door to rattle.

Plus, I appreciate that this is a truck, my daily driver that also gets dirty, and that I wasn't looking to enter db drags nor did I spend a ton of money on the components.

Of course, your wants and needs may vary...

 

I used 4 screws to attach the MDF ring to the existing 4 screw holes in the door. I used flathead screws which were countersunk ( ?) so that they're below the level of the MDF where the speaker lies on.

Then 4 more screws for the speaker to the MDF. Silicone all around... About 3 layers of peel & seal from Lowe's for sound deadening... carpet padding with 3M spray glue here and there for vibrations/contact points...

I think it was easier for me that way than to try and aim a screw correctly through the speaker, the MDF, and the door mount... not sure the holes int he speaker matched the door holes either anyways...hehe..

 

For those who replaced the front tweeters, did you re-use the bracket, make a custom bracket, or drill some holes in the door frame triangle?

J

 

Reuse the bracket.

 

I reused the bracket, but with some tweaks.

 

Thanks, it worked out great.

I should be getting some damplifier sheets soon.

J

 

I didn't reuse the bracket...

My tweets came with a metal grille on them already... so.. I just used a Dremel and cut out the circular plastic grille on that triangular piece..then slid the new tweet through there and siliconed it in place...

So, still using the triangular piece keeping a factory look, but with a better grille and I snapped it back in back in place

besides, that plastic grille stinks for sound quality... you want a real grille there.... I even want to cut the plastic grille out of the door panels so I can use the metal grille that came with the speaker...hehe..

 

You're saying that the plastic grill has an affect on SQ? I'm a little skeptical on that...

 

Yeah... that struck me weird as well.

I can see that being true if the grill has a lot of material in it, but that has nothing to do with it being plastic.

You certainly want something "acoustically transparent" in front of the speaker (sub boxes excluded), and there are bad uses of materials (plastic/metal/wood with very few holes; tightly woven cloth; etc.), and the grill itself need to be well anchored so that it doesn't rattle, but the specific material isn't as much of an issue as other factors.

 

yahh... if you think those holes in those plastic grilles are good try listening to the music with and with out the panels on...

it isn't the plastic itself but the design ... some audiophiles will cut slots into the plastic grilles and place speaker cloth there instead even..