95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Where is a Good Clutch Write Up for 3.4l Tacoma 99 4x4

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Old Nov 17, 2015 | 10:08 PM
  #1  
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Question Where is a Good Clutch Write Up for 3.4l Tacoma 99 4x4

So,

I am a mechanically inclined individual and want to start tackling my clutch on my 1999 toyota tacoma 4x4 with trd package. However, I am already a little stuck on what to do with removing the drivelines (drive shafts) from the transmission, the bolts won't come out after removing the nut. So on one I beat it with a hammer and it had like spline looking thing on the bolt that I wasn't sure if I shouldn't even be removing those.

Sorry if this is but I have looked and looked and looked and no one seems to have posted a step by step photo DIY how to for clutch replacement on these trucks. Am I tripping? Any help appreciated.
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Old Nov 18, 2015 | 12:03 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Those front drive shaft bolts are pressed in !!

You slide the front back then pull the shaft off toward the front .

match marks are your friend

Have you tried a Google search or the search engine of your choice

The factory Service Manual is also pretty good .

Just be careful doing this yourself two people is good three is even better.
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Old Nov 18, 2015 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Those front drive shaft bolts are pressed in !!

You slide the front back then pull the shaft off toward the front .

match marks are your friend

Have you tried a Google search or the search engine of your choice

The factory Service Manual is also pretty good .

Just be careful doing this yourself two people is good three is even better.



Note the match mark on the flange.


Actually, the flange on the diff has bolts and nuts. Only the flange on the T/C is pressed in studs. So if you remove the bolts in front, then you can lower the front flange free, and then pull the rear flange forward off its studs and no need to compress. Either way works, your choice.

The rear is the same, bolts on the diff, studs on the T/C. I found it easy to compress ther rear shaft and push it aside, so I didn't touch it in back, but it was tough to compress the front and it was easier just to take it off at both ends and then you have it out of the way..

Here are some decent DIYs, but the FSM is a must-have, as Wyo9 says:

http://www.ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149715

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...enance/clutch/

I did it solo, but I really could have used some help when it came time to spear that Bell/trans/TC combo back onto the engine. Preferably born on Krypton. I got it done, though, and I'm 62 and not as strong as I used to be.

I highly recommend you swap your trans and T/C shift seat bushings for the poly ones made by Marlin Crawler. Makes a WORLD of difference to how it shifts. My old ones were falling to pieces so there was no choice. If they have never been done, this is a GREAT time to swap your starter contacts. I did, and my old ones were 90% worn out.

Last edited by TheDurk; Nov 18, 2015 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Nov 18, 2015 | 12:07 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Here I thought you were young!!!
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Old Nov 18, 2015 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Here I thought you were young!!!
What are you suggesting?
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 07:11 AM
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Are you talking about both the white and blue seat here https://www.marlincrawler.com/transm...avy-duty-seats
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by vasinvictor
Are you talking about both the white and blue seat here https://www.marlincrawler.com/transm...avy-duty-seats
Exactly. I have links to DIY's if you need them.
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