Hey there. I have a 22RE, 1993 Toyota Single Cab pickup 2WD. After a while, I finally got the truck to start (after figuring this problem out). When i did it worked great, started fine, drove fine, idled fine and all. I heard a faint rattlingsound coming from the engine, a very faint one. Someone told me that the "sewing machine" noise was normal in Toyota 22RE's and that is why I dismissed it. Others told me to look at my TC Guides to see if they were plastic and broken, etc.

So, I did this (I have pictures for those interested, listed below). So, I went ahead and removed the valve cover and looked at the timing chain and its guides. Everything looked clean and good and the Timing Chain guides were taunt and in tact, and nice looking. As well as the chain itself, looked great and felt great. As if someone recently replaced them (with plastic ones, I don't know why) but it appears that way.

This truck has 344,000 Miles on it and the old owner swore it had been rebuild 14K ago. Anyways without going off subject, I placed the valve cover back on, everything is in order now...except, that knocking noise is LOUD. My mechanic buddy says it sounds like a valve issue. Now don't get me wrongI can work on engines ( the ford in the background of the Video, i rebuilt myself), but Toyota's are foreign to me, and knocking noises even more so. Maybe someone can help assist me with this. It is also worth noting that the truck has hesitations while starting. I do not know if this is relevant, but I thought I'd add that in. After a few (maybe 3 or so full cranks) and me pressing the gas, it starts.

The knocking appears less noisy when idling, and is louder than hell under load (upon throttle). I have a few pics and a link to my YouTube video I placed, to give you all a better visual.

Images of Valve Cover off:

Any help is appreciated. I was hoping it is not a rod knock or something. Is there a possibility that I may have dropped a small bolt or the like, into the valve area when replacing the valve cover? Or does it sound like something serious and expensive? To me it sounds like something is simply rattling in the Valve area. Any suggestions?

EDIT: If you hear a "vacuum" leak, so far I've nailed it down to the spark plugs being the wrong ones. So the compression is being lost via the plugs. Any ideas on that as well? I know it is not a part of my Original Question, but I just thought I'd throw it in there.

Thanks in advance,
Jason!

 

I removed the valve cover and noticed that the valve cover gasket was as flat as paper. So I went and replaced it.

The reason was because I thought that maybe there wasn't enough clearance and the valve were hitting the valve cover. When the cover was off, I checked the alignment of the valves, and their position, angle and all. Everything was in order and looked good. So, with the nice new vslve cover gasket which was substantially thicker, I thought maybe I simply needed clearance. Well this did nothing. When I pulled the valve cover off, I noticed little "chips" and dents in the top of the valve cover. On the #2, #3 & #5 cylinders, which is what made me think there was too little clearance between the valves and valve cover. Does that make sense or is it possible?

For niw the rattling noise from the video above still persists. Also it may be important to note that when I pulled my oil dipstick, there was a very small amount of metal shavings towards the bottom of it. What could this mean?

A friend said that if the oil pump scfreen/filter was clogged than it would not send proper lubrication to the Pistons and it may possibly cause a knocking noise due to the Pistons not being lubricated. Can this be possible?

Also, I replaced the spark plugs to the OEM from toyota, made for that truck and the vacuum leak from them stopped, which is good. But the rattling/knocking you see in the above video still continues.

Could it be worse problems? Could it be related to my timing being off and the #1 cylinder is not in the right position upon the cycle?

Sorry for double posting or bumping but I had to throw this in there for you guys to get a better picture of what's going on.

 

metal shavings on the dipstick doesn't sound good.

drain the oil through cheesecloth or similar, and/or pour it off slowly from the drain pan... you should be able to see if there is any metal in it.

 

how tight did you make the valve cover bolts? they should be just barely tight, look up the spec.

 

I tightened them to spec. And it still does it.

 

Okay until about 4am yesterday I was fiddling with my truck. My friend suggested that I remove the valve cover and start the engine, if oil shoots out then the pump is working and successfully sending oil to the engine. Well, it worked. So this means to me that my engine is getting proper lubrication. Does this sound logical?

It is also important to note that when the valve cover was off and I started the truck, it still made the knocking sound. Does that mean I can rule a valve knock off my list?

 

I did. And there are very fine small metal flakes. I will try to add a picture. In my next post.

 

OK from the sound of it at least a one time you had clearance issues on the valve cover. Torque on the valve cover is new gasket set 1\2 moons and nut "bushings" then I just go to hand tight an then till I see the new rubber bushing bulge a little. As far as the PO doing the rebuild. The sert screws on the rocker assembly take a beating and sometime need to be replaced. Toyota is the best place to get these screws from the motor builders I have talked to. You could try the stethoscope trick and try and narrow down the area the noise is coming from. A stethoscope works well but so does a long screwdriver. Let us know what you find

 

which means that overtightened valve cover bolts are not the issue... it is a problem with the 22re tho, just not in this case.

have you adjusted the valves yet?

 

Havent adjusted them no not yet. Unfortunately I do not know how to do that. I'm sure youtube is a great satrt, but there videos I see don't give much beginner oriented detail.

Maybe a simple step by step here someone can post, if possible?

 

How do I test using a screwdriver.or a tesescope? Sorry, I'm no good with toyota engines or knocking for that matter. Also, I used a 36" garden hose and placed it over parts of the engine to hear for knocking. So far I've found its coming from the driverside, louder near cyl 1. Any relevance?

 

I forgot to mention that I ran a magnet under the cam lobe and arms and rockers to detect metal shavings and every time I put the magnet under them, there were small metal shavings in the head.

I ran the magnet across every reachable spot and every time I pulled the magnet out there were small metal flakes. I must have ran the magnet at least 5 or 6 times through the head under the cam and all. If it were longer magnet I would have stuck it under the timing chain.

 

With that many metal shavings being found. I would say most hope is you have a cam rounding. But metal shavings in my limited experience usually meen a rebuild. At least the 22re is very easy to rebuild. I have limited experience so that's just my limited opinion. Good luck

As far as a screwdriver or stethoscope. Probably just like theb garden hose you are using. One end on the motor vthe other in you ear

 

What was the official outcome of the loud knocking. Just did the same thing and have the exact same noise with my 92 22re. Read the forum reply and never saw the official outcome of the loud knocking.

 

Abnormal sounds and metal shavings = tear down, inspect, rebuild..

 

I'm still trying to figure out where he found number 5 cylinder like he said in post #2.

 

That must be a typo because the 22R-E is a Four-Cylinder engine. There can't be a number five cylinder.

 

Sounds like the connecting rods our main bearings issue