I'm piecing together parts for my brake upgrade on my 89 1st gen runner and got a smoking hot deal on a 1995 v6 4x4 runner oem 1-1/16" bore master cylinder that I couldn't turn it down so I bought it , I know most guys are using the 1" bore with this upgrade but have heard guys also using the 1-1/16" bore when paired with a dual diaphram brake booster can someone pls confirm this thank you ! And any comments you may have much appreciated !!

 

I plan on getting the 95 t100 dual diaphram brake booster next.

 

Anyone ???

 

I'm, it's out of a 89' cressida no issues at all, everything else i got off a 95' 4runner. My brakes are perfect.

 

thank you , so I have both masters the 1" & 1 and 1/16" so I know now both will work ! , I'm thinking maybe the bigger bore since I'm gonna eventually do the rear disk brake swap. But thanks for confirming that.

 

Bigger mc bore means less brake pressure but since its only 1/16 bigger it probably wont make a great difference compared to stock.

 

I think I need hydraulic schooling, because I was under the impression that a bigger bore would mean more pressure when depressing the pedal. Am I thinking about this wrong? I ask this question in earnest because I am being terrorized by a hydraulic system as we speak. I thought more fluid meant more pressure.

 

Yes, you are thinking about it wrong. For the MC, smaller bore is more pressure and less volume. Bigger bore is less pressure and more volume.

For any given amount of foot pressure (excluding the effects of the booster), the product of pressure and volume stays equal. Increase one and the other decreases.

That's why I don't really promote going away from stock parts in the braking system. Here are the things that interact and that you have to know about as you are designing a braking system.
- Vehicle weight under worst case conditions (includes trailers you might be towing that don't have their own brakes).
- Wheel diameter (bigger wheel requires more braking force on the disc/shoe)
- Brake disk/drum diameter (affects leverage on wheel)
- Brake disk thickness and construction (affects ability to get rid of heat)
- Pad material (affects heat resistance before fading starts, but also affects coefficient of friction between pads and rotors.)
- Wheel cylinder diameter (larger cylinder requires more fluid but applies more pressure on the pad)
- Master cylinder diameter (larger cylinder moves more fluid but provides less hydraulic pressure and thus less pressure on the pad)
- Brake booster "gain" factor - how much does it multiply your braking effort.
- Pedal stroke length
- Length of pedal lever arm
- Maximum allowable pressure in the system.

As you can see, just fooling around with one of them is pretty much a shot in the dark. It's pretty hard to second-guess the factory engineers who have all of this data at their fingertips and also have months to spend full-time, designing and testing the system.

 

Thank you for the answer. So it must be the same for clutch hydraulics also right? I really needed clarification on this what you say makes sense. Thank you

 

http://flic.kr/p/pZjRr5

Just need the rotors , and brake upgrade ready , I have the 1" bore and 1and 1/16" bore master cylinder , I talked to two persons who have installed both along with dual diaphram brake booster and both say it's perfect , so think I'm gonna do the bigger bore master since I plan in going with rear disk brakes on near future.

 

That's cool, you'll feel the difference as soon you get back on the road with your new brakes, definitely more stopping power.

 

Yup can't wait , but have to wait for the rotors that are coming with freshly rebuilt manual locking hubs and knuckle already assembled next week.

 

http://flic.kr/p/q1bJHt

Painted the caliper with duplicolor caliper paint kit today , suppose to last a few years and made with ceramic in it so it's also high heat , this was after two coats brushed on , think I'm gonna do one more coat for kicks. Looks brand new !!

 

Finished installing brake upgrade went with 1" bore mc, dual diaphragm booster, new slotted and drilled rotors , 2 gen. 4Runner calipers, and hawk blue race pads , and freshly rebuilt manual locking hubs. , so far stopping power has improved very happy with the end results. http://flic.kr/p/q9cMzx http://flic.kr/p/qqrNbH http://flic.kr/p/ptCvsU http://flic.kr/p/q947nw