Questions on 95 4runner 4.3 swap gearing
#1
Questions on 95 4runner 4.3 swap gearing
Hey guys. kinda a newb here... Love this site. I've spent weeks reading tons of info here. Got a few questions I haven't found answers for.
Runner is currently stock with 31x10.5 bfg's. 3.slow 4 speed auto. 4x4 (duh). Love my runner. Last year with the drop down tailgate. Has power everything, even sunroof. Has remote start which is great for cold weather.
Motor has 220k miles on it and its leaking. About a qrt every 3 to 4k miles. Outside of that, runs great.
Needs - New shocks, swaybar bushings, swaybar links (front), pitman and idler arms.
Gonna get, 4.3 vortec (over bored .030, new cam. HP will be abut 220). Doing rebuild myself. Will have a shop do the over bore, its getting a MPFI conversion as well as new fule pump, wiring etc.
700r4 tranny, Question one: Advance Adapters ttp://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-5705--gm-700r4-to-toyota-truck-21-spline-gear-driven-transfer-case-adapter-kit/ Is that the correct adapter and a good price?
2" BJ and spring lift from 4x4.fatbobsgarage.com (including front dif drop)
Its getting 33x12.5 BFG's. Got new rims with 4.75 offset. Question two: will 33x12.5 fit with 2" suspention lift? From what I've read, 4" is better, but 2" will fit them.
Last question. With the 4.3 and 700r4 trany, do I need to regear for the 33's? pros and cons? I've been thinking about getting at least a locker for the rear. If I do that, should I go ahead and regear while I'm there? whats the pros and cons to regearing? or due to not being a hardcore crawler, should I stick to stock gearing?
Any advice would be totally awesome.
Last bit of info. I will be gathering all of the parts and doing the rebuilds to 4.3 and 700r4 over the next two years and then take a week or two off work to do the swap, wiring, etc. Usage: Daily driver, camping, some 4wheeling (nothing to hardcore) hauling ATV's.
Please hit me up if you have questions. Thanks in advance!!!
Runner is currently stock with 31x10.5 bfg's. 3.slow 4 speed auto. 4x4 (duh). Love my runner. Last year with the drop down tailgate. Has power everything, even sunroof. Has remote start which is great for cold weather.
Motor has 220k miles on it and its leaking. About a qrt every 3 to 4k miles. Outside of that, runs great.
Needs - New shocks, swaybar bushings, swaybar links (front), pitman and idler arms.
Gonna get, 4.3 vortec (over bored .030, new cam. HP will be abut 220). Doing rebuild myself. Will have a shop do the over bore, its getting a MPFI conversion as well as new fule pump, wiring etc.
700r4 tranny, Question one: Advance Adapters ttp://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-5705--gm-700r4-to-toyota-truck-21-spline-gear-driven-transfer-case-adapter-kit/ Is that the correct adapter and a good price?
2" BJ and spring lift from 4x4.fatbobsgarage.com (including front dif drop)
Its getting 33x12.5 BFG's. Got new rims with 4.75 offset. Question two: will 33x12.5 fit with 2" suspention lift? From what I've read, 4" is better, but 2" will fit them.
Last question. With the 4.3 and 700r4 trany, do I need to regear for the 33's? pros and cons? I've been thinking about getting at least a locker for the rear. If I do that, should I go ahead and regear while I'm there? whats the pros and cons to regearing? or due to not being a hardcore crawler, should I stick to stock gearing?
Any advice would be totally awesome.
Last bit of info. I will be gathering all of the parts and doing the rebuilds to 4.3 and 700r4 over the next two years and then take a week or two off work to do the swap, wiring, etc. Usage: Daily driver, camping, some 4wheeling (nothing to hardcore) hauling ATV's.
Please hit me up if you have questions. Thanks in advance!!!
#2
Are you dead set on a toyota case? I was planning on using one behind a 4l60e but the 800 dollar adapter killed that fast, even though I already had a toyota transfer case. I'm going to use a passenger drop np241.
To your gearing questions, get it up and running then decide on gears. I know I might have to swap to higher gears (4.88's to 4.10's) but I'm going to wait till I get it going first.
To your gearing questions, get it up and running then decide on gears. I know I might have to swap to higher gears (4.88's to 4.10's) but I'm going to wait till I get it going first.
#3
Nope. I'm not set on a yota case. Honestly, I hadent even thought about changing the case. This all started with wanting to upgrade the 3.0 and I found that for the cost, I was best off getting a 700r4 then sticking with the yota trany and adapter. I will look into the NP241 and other options for a transfer. As it stands now, I'll have about 6k tied up (including an ARB locker) in this so, if I can cut some cost, great, if not... oh well... its a Toy anyways
Thanks for the advice on the gearing. I will do as you have suggested. A gear change is a weekend job anyways if I decide to do that.
Thanks for the advice on the gearing. I will do as you have suggested. A gear change is a weekend job anyways if I decide to do that.
#4
Ok, for those of you following this. Can get a NP241 for $145 (including core) from junk yard. Rebuild kits look to run about $225, if needed. Still a LOT less then an adapter. However, that is for a chain drive t-case. As my current t-case is a gear driven one, I may decide to keep it and fork out the 600+ ponies for the adapter. Still looking for a gear drive option, but it looks like keeping my Toy t-case is the best choice for gear driven.
Oh, and adapter is here http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...e-adapter-kit/
$621 and change.
Oh, and adapter is here http://www.advanceadapters.com/produ...e-adapter-kit/
$621 and change.
#5
$145 is a good deal for a passenger side drop np241. If it's a drivers drop that's a average price.
I don't know where your looking at rebuild kits, but rebuild kits are less than $100 dollars.
Yes a NP241 is chain driven. Chain cases have been used by every automaker since the late 80's. They are not weak
I don't know where your looking at rebuild kits, but rebuild kits are less than $100 dollars.
Yes a NP241 is chain driven. Chain cases have been used by every automaker since the late 80's. They are not weak
#6
its from a junk yard so, same price for ether side drop. The rebuild cost is just the first one I found that looked like it was a decent one. Rebulid for the t-case on my runner looks like its under $100. I'd like to keep the gear drive and just fork out the 600+ for the adapter, but, if by the time of install if I'm running short on cash I'll look into the NP241 option.
Oh, and FWI, my yoto is a 95 and has a gear driven t-case
one of the best... or so I've read
Oh, and FWI, my yoto is a 95 and has a gear driven t-case
one of the best... or so I've read
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#8
/facepalm
Ok, I'm a moron... lol. was totally looking at the wrong info. I did some digging and found that the gear drive t-case was only on older (80 ish) 4-cly and that the transfer case and tranny in my runner is all one unit so... I'll be putting in a NP241. I guess I would have learned that when i went to pull it, but, glad to know it now so that I'll have all the parts lined up that I need/want etc. Thank you for pointing that out to me. Glad I decided to post here
lol...
Ok, I'm a moron... lol. was totally looking at the wrong info. I did some digging and found that the gear drive t-case was only on older (80 ish) 4-cly and that the transfer case and tranny in my runner is all one unit so... I'll be putting in a NP241. I guess I would have learned that when i went to pull it, but, glad to know it now so that I'll have all the parts lined up that I need/want etc. Thank you for pointing that out to me. Glad I decided to post here
lol...
#10
Im doing a 4.3/4l60e/toy case. I have almost $600 in adapters, but I got good deals. You would be even better off since you have a 700r4. My trans has the newer 6bolt pattern on the back so I had to buy an extra adapter. Ive seen some adapters on pirate recently for around $250 I think, but you would still have to buy an output shaft for the trans or buy/build a spacer.
Another thing I would look at doing since your running the gm auto is adding a body lift. My drivetrain is sitting pretty low (with the tcase at about the factory height). I just realized you aren't planning on doing an SAS. Im not sure what all it takes to fit the 4.3 in there with the IFS.
Another thing I would look at doing since your running the gm auto is adding a body lift. My drivetrain is sitting pretty low (with the tcase at about the factory height). I just realized you aren't planning on doing an SAS. Im not sure what all it takes to fit the 4.3 in there with the IFS.
#12
Well here is what happened. I originally planned to go with a turbo350 trans. That only requires the one adapter. I got it used for $315 before I even got the 4.3. Well after I bought a whole donor truck with the 4.3/4l60e and someone gave me the AA output shaft for it, I decided to go ahead and buy the 6 bolt to 4 bolt adapter for $250. I paid $500 for the truck, so Im into mine for $1,065 at the moment and Im hoping to get a couple hundred back for the truck in scrap or parting out. I was also given the gear driven tcase (along with my solid front axle) from my uncle.
Of course, those prices don't include the trans rebuild kit and gaskets/seals ive put on the 4.3 lol.
Of course, those prices don't include the trans rebuild kit and gaskets/seals ive put on the 4.3 lol.
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