Ok so I have replaced the motor top to bottom, rebuilt the carb, and put in a new cat and exhaust. Wiring is good. Plugs and dist. cap is good. What else am I missing? New ECU?

 

Keeps stalling when? Driving? Uphill? Idling?

 

Idleing. I have to keep on the gas to bring up the rpms a little in order to keep it running.

 

Fuel pump working? Good clean fuel filter? Timing set correctly?

 

Yep. Good gas good fuel pump and I personally set the timing to TDC. Oh yeah I forgot to say its not constant. Sorry its been down for about a year and im working on it slowly.

 

What is the timing set at? Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, also are you the one who rebuilt the carb? It seems rare that people buy new aisin carbs or gets theirs rebuilt and the truck runs good, they seem real hard to tune.

 

Yeah more info...what have you checked? New engine means you could have screwed up any number of things. No offense but no one here knows your mechanical ability. Hundreds of ways to get things wrong on an engine install.

Vacuum leaks, emissions stuff hooked up wrong, rebuilt carbs are often crap, spark plug wire not snapped on all the way, gap messed up, etc etc etc etc.

Also, rebuilt carbs never have the idle cut (fuel cut) solenoid replaced, and it'll go bad sometimes. When that happened to mine, it would sometimes stall, and I had to keep my foot on the gas or it would stall.

 

And shouldn't the timing be advanced past TDC? At least 5 degrees? I don't think my truck would run well at 0.

 

Ok so the reason I have a new motor is because the engine was wpied out by the previous owner. I had a local shop put a new motor in. Per my haynes manual the timing is supposed to be set at 0 degrees. The vacuum lines are good. I have replaced plug wires plugs distributer cap/rotor. I have done all of the basic first checks you would look for.

 

And checked for vacuum leaks? Float level of the carb is good?

 

My fsm and everywhere else I've checked says 5 degrees, I'm running mine at 8 now with a weber on premium gas. No engine I know of is timed at 0 degrees, I think you are confusing things with the timing chain install or something.

 

Yeah as far as the carb goes I had a guy rebuild it. Thats all he does is carbs. The vacuum lines- I've gone through all of them. They are good...

 

Just to let you know, unless you are running ridiculously high compression (which is unlikely in even a moderately built 22R) then paying for premium fuel at the pump is a waste of money. Higher octane fuel is designed simply to decrease combustion upon compression (Knock) before it is sparked. In fact, running higher octane fuel (more resistant to combustion) in lower compression engines typically results in unburnt fuel - basically meaning that since your compression isn't high enough, you won't get a complete burn thus blowing a portion of straight fuel out your tail pipe. I'd be willing to bet that your exhaust likely smells like raw fuel.

Then there is the myths that "premium gas gives me better gas mileage, power and has cleansing agents to remove deposits." The fact is that seldom ever does the marginal increase in fuel economy justify the additional cost at the pump and performance in a lower compression engines is usually reduced due to the lower combustion rate of higher octane fuels. Also, since the EPA has be bending us over at the pump for years, all fuels have the same cleansing agents in them these days even though in the past premium fuels typically did have more and beneficial cleansing agents over mid grade or regular.

Just thought I'd fill you in so you don't blow money out your exhaust pipe. Rant/hijack over.... continue on fellas!

 

Dave I know a good base about fuels, octane, etc and different setups having run some high comp builds tuned on 87 and 91 and c14+. I am running premium right now since I experienced a slight pinging under high loads at higher rpm, after retarding the timing on 87 and trying premium and running it at 6-7-8 and 10 degs I feel right now that it how it runs best and smoothest. It might have to do with my slight underjetting (lean) or the 20r head which has smaller cc if I remember, with my oversized valves which portude more in the combustion chamber and the 0.015'' milling (who knows if its been milled before). My compression numbers however are low but the ratio should be close to 10.5:1 (not based on my measurements).

The ''myth'' about better fuel enconomy is on more recent cars where the ecm can adjust timing and other parameters based on knock sensor reading, thus increasing performance and fuel economy slightly...Around here premium fuel doesn't have ethanol either where 87 has 10%, 89 has 5%.

Sorry about the high jacking, Kawa had some good info and I just wanted to specify why I'm running premium in my case.

 

Ok so as far as the timing goes its supposed to be set at 0 degrees. I confirmed this with a smog station.

 

Well you can set the timing to whatever you would like, but the smog station is full of crap... The timing (per the FSM) should be set at 5* BTDC with the vacuum advance cut. It WILL NOT run properly at 0*

 

Smog station don't know crap about your truck. They know general stuff maybe about a certain year Toyota and confuse people by applying to every old Toyota ever created.