Just started up the old girl after total rebuild on a swapped motor and engblder master kit. Its running real rough. Timming is set right about 5 degrees and idle is at 800 but the screw is almost all the way in, just barrely cracked. But im getting no oil pressure on the gauge. Sender is not leaking and pluged in. How do I tell if anything is even circulating? I dont even want to run it to test anything more. Im pretty sure the rough running is probably at least partly vaccum line problems somewhere but could it also be effecting the oil pressure somehow?

 

Might be your gauge? You can pull the valve cover see how things look. Crank it over or start it and watch for oil.

 

Really you just did all that work and don`t have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in at start up.

Then after all it is your engine.

 

It would be so much easier if the oil plug wasn't that weird British thread pitch.

 

Adapters can be bought from just about any place.

Like most Toyota parts no one stocks anything

I keep about half a dozen because all my Toyota`s have manual oil pressure gauges

It is just a Metric pipe thread.

It is like saying you can`t get lug nuts because there a Metric thread.

 

Nope just a regular guy with a normal toolbox. Had it started and set timimg and still no oil pressure refilled oil filter and cranked it with coil unpluggged still nothing. Pulled the valve cover and valve train dry except for the assembly lube.
Been reading a bit some pack oil pump with engine assembly lube, I didnt do that. Some have said they packed the filter with vasoline....? Other concerned oil galley plugs not removed?
Can I pull the oil pump and pack it without taking timimg cover and everything apart?
How does this filter packing therory work?
Is there any other way to "BACKFILL" the oil pump without removing it?

Again this is a fully cleaned block, all new engbldr parts kit, started up (runs rough, but started...no grinding or binding). Ust gotta get the oil pumping then I can check for vacuum problems, adjust valves, check idle, recheck timimg, maybe tps/egr.......

 

No you have to remove the pump, and just pack it with Vaseline. Like this.


Reinstall. I would also pull the pan and make sure your pickup isn't ˟˟˟˟ up or something. If that doesn't do it, your pulling the timing cover and cleaning out your oil passages.

I would pull the valve cover and dump some oil on the valve train before you start things back up.

 

Or...

Just pull the check valve on the pump and put some oil in and prime the oil pump. Pull the EFI fuse and crank that beast until you have pressure. No need to take apart the timing cover.

The FSM has the specs on what torque to put the valve back on with.

You did put on a Aisin pump, right?

 

Dumped and put more assbly lube on already.

 

Dont have the expensive and elusive fsm.... I used the pump that came with the engbdr kit

 

Well there is always google...

Here is what you want to fill, the gold bolt...

 

That's way too much vasoline, IMHO.

 

i've never packed a 22r pump. Found that one on google. Some older pumps take alot of priming.

 

Any one have the fsm specs on how much to torque it back down once I get it out? Hanyes manual said dont remove that bolt....

 

3VZ, Pull the pressure sensor and use a oil pump can and feed some back down into the pump.
22RE you can pull the pressure relief valve cap, spring and ball and pump some oil in and reassemble.


Did you forget to put the crank key in?
Hope your pump is not damage now.

 

Joke? Whats the crank key and wheres it found? I'll bite at anything right now....

 

Like the last one I wonder if he forget the oil pump drive gear??

If you did not remember putting a key in the drive gear I venture it is still with the old pump.

I put quite a few new oil pumps on primed with Lucas oil additive or in the old days Something like STP.

Never had any pressure problems with the Engine Builder oil pumps

 

Ok so the keys are the alignment risers on the crank that the driver spline sleeve slides over to make it spin with the crank. Yes they are still there. The spline drive sleeve is on the crank, the pump with both gears are over the spline sleeve. Pump bolted on and the main pulley is also aligned on the keys.

Just pulled off the pump and packed it with assembly lube. No oil pressure. Pulled the filter and there was some lube in the filter..... could I have put the sending unit in too far? Is it possible to screw it in too far that its mostly blocking the passegeway from pump to sender to filter?
Also, read some about people missing an allen plug in the block somewhere? Where would that be. Im pretty sure everything came off the old engine or matched with what was already there the old engine.

 

Here's a link to an fsm.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...mobile-275285/

 

How on earth can you do a "total rebuild" of a complex modern engine without the manual ("elusive" or not)? How do you know what the torques are?

The manual has a detailed procedure for removing, checking, and reinstalling the oil pump. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...118oilpump.pdf Note that there is nothing in there about vaseline or priming the oil pump. (I've rebuilt other engines where the manual did call for packing the pump, so I think the Toyota engineers knew what they were doing when they left that out.)

So I really doubt the no-oil-pressure issue is due to priming. I'm guessing it something as simple as a disconnected pickup. But it's only a guess; if it were mine I'd pull the pan, look, and (probably) start over, with the help of the manual.