Hey guys. been searching here and other forums.but can't seem to find my answer. I'm wanting to upgrade my alternator. i don't have a winch yet, but even just running my heater and high beams seems to work my stock alt pretty hard. Wondering if anyone has part numbers for autozone, oriellys, or Napa. for the gm alternator i cann use with the TG bracket. or is there a different toyota alternator that's an easier swap?

 

How hard have you looked ? There's dozens of threads of info on this question ...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127...nstall-206450/

Also be sure to change/upgrade your charge and ground wires to handle the extra power ... any welding shop should have quality wire .

 

also curious how you determine your alternator is being "worked hard" , are you noticing your lights dimming when running multiple circuits ?

 

If i have high beams, heater on high, and windshield wipers on all at once the idle drops quite a bit and headlights dim out. i know all my grounds and everything are good so those aren't causing it. and its not a bad alt cus I've tried numerous alts from different places and they have all done the same thing. i know there are a lot of threads on this already, but I've tried using the part numbeers and the only one that's worked is the summit racing pn. and i don't feel like spending about 200 for their alt if i can get one for under a hundred at a parts store

 

Have you actually monitored voltage AT BATTERY POST when this happens?
Have you actually monitored voltage AT "B" POST of alternator when this happens?

Nothing's wrong with the stock alternator for stock equipment. It is the way things are wired that's the problem. High-beams and other loads, cause a lot of current through the fusible link line from battery to fuse block, causing too much voltage drop at that point. H4 conversion harness for headlights will correct that (See 4crawler's post on headlight wiring).

Search Yotatech for Jaguar Alternator (I think it's 130-amps). It's almost plug-n-play, except for swapping pulleys and a slight bend on mounting bracket.

 

If that is still the original charge harness I will bet the wire of the B post is about shot from thermal cycling .


If it still has the stock ground cables They seem much to small at least 20 plus years later.

Could also be the poor quality of the factory voltmeter.

With Engine running and Autometer voltmeter my 86 4Runner stays at a steady 14 VDC blower on high hazard lights on high beams.

 

Search for cs-144 youll find thread. So many different models work.

 

I bought my CS144 alternator from here. Good guy to deal with.

The CS144 alternators are here.

I bought this alternator. Brand new American made and no core.

I haven't installed yet but I will post up pics of when I do. I ordered a Trail Gear GM alt bracket kit and will just use the top bracket as the stock bottom bracket on motor mount will fit. Do a search on bing.com or equivalent for "22re GM alternator" and a ton of links will come up. Good luck. If I can help please let me know.

 

I actually started tearing my junk apart in order to do the swap yesterday. If the bottom bracket will work then im gonna leave it cause I think be a pain in butt to take out. Good to know.


OP Let us know what you end up doing either way.