So I've been having some issues (growing increasingly bad) with my 22re once it warms up. I apologize if this has been asked before I did some searching and didn't find any specific answers but I just want to confirm what I'm thinking.

Scenario is as such, cold start, fires right up (even at 0 degrees f) drives fine, can run around town doing errands or whatever. shut it off.
Now go to fire it up warm, and battery / brake / a/t oil (not an auto, swapped sr5 cluster in for the tach) lights are on, and car stumbles something awful, no power, misfiring like crazy, would probably take me 5 minutes to go 0-60. Voltage output on the dash is the lower end of the good range on the stock voltometer. It will behave like this for 1 minute or so then suddenly just snap out of it. Warning lights go off, full power returns, voltometer reads at the top of the working range again. Irresponsibly I ignore this issue.

Yesterday took the truck for an 80 mile drive, gets there fine, but I noticed the voltage output was a little lower (still good) when we got off the highway at our destination and no warning lights this time. Odd I thought, shut it off and prayed for the best.

Started it up warm and the warning lights are back on, same symptoms as before. No power in first, lower voltage output (I'm assuming, I know the stock meter is basically worthless) chugging like crazy, cant get above 5-10 mph, its really doing it this time, so i pull over and in neutral rev the engine above 4k. It snaps back to life, lights are off and she behaves as normal.

Highway drive home, about 40 minutes into it lights come back on, voltage goes down a little bit like before, but it still maintains highway speeds. I noticed the blinker caused a fluctuation in voltage so I turned off the blower and the stereo, it climbs back up to the top of the good range but the lights are still on. truck has power but its at highway speed. The truck makes it the next 60 miles home but I'm nervous the whole way. Never dies, stays in the good range.

Now I'm assuming I need a new alt, but the symptoms leading up to now seemed too easy to remedy, could I be having these problems if the battery is good, and alternator is almost bad? (the stumbling on warm start up). Or does this point to something else? (egr valve I've heard mentioned.)

Thanks for your help in advance, always really glad to have the advice of a forum of experts.

 

Do you have a Multimeter so you can have an idea of the real voltage in the system??/

There is no lower end of the good range it is a scale going from low to high left to right.

It sure sounds like a bad connection someplace

If the engine always starts never needs a jump has to be either a poor connection bad grounds

Could be as simple as loose battery terminals

***Then maybe your fuel system is losing pressure when shut off .**

Try turn ignition to on take a slow count to ten then crank see what happens.

You do wait till the engine is running smooth before trying to move??

Your not one driving around with the gas tank on fumes are you??

 

Do you have a Multimeter so you can have an idea of the real voltage in the system??/
I do, I suppose thats the next step, I just wanted to see if it was obviously a bad alt. I should mention that the lights are now on consistently, tried to take the truck down the street today from a cold start.

There is no lower end of the good range it is a scale going from low to high left to right.
Ah okay, I was just referring to what the manual described as the acceptable range, which looks like a sideways parenthesis

It sure sounds like a bad connection someplace

If the engine always starts never needs a jump has to be either a poor connection bad grounds

Could be as simple as loose battery terminals
nice n tight, but it sounds like i should start chasing down bad grounds. or at least maybe tomorrow or friday. its been a wee bit cold the past two days

***Then maybe your fuel system is losing pressure when shut off .**

Try turn ignition to on take a slow count to ten then crank see what happens.

You do wait till the engine is running smooth before trying to move??
I don't always let it warm up all the way but I will let it run for 10-20 seconds before moving.

Your not one driving around with the gas tank on fumes are you??
It seems to happen regardless of how much fuel is in the tank

 

Okay so I pulled the alternator, it looked nasty. Cleaned it up a bit (surprised to learn it was the original unit [truck has 240k on the dial]). Took it in to get tested and it passed with flying colors.

Came back, reinstalled it and cleaned up all of the engine grounds, ground away some paint at the firewall and fender, wirewheeled the points on the block, cleaned up the connectors and a little dialectic grease.

Fired it up and all the problems were gone. It performed admirably last night running errands.
100 mile highway trip today, it has more power than before at highway speeds, runs superbly, until we take a break around mile 80. As I slow down, my idiot lights come back on. and the voltage needle goes from all the way to the right to maybe about 3/4. It's not stumbling like crazy like it did before. The lights only come on at a full stop. If I rev up I can get them to go away. The voltage needle only seemed to climb back up when I was back up at highway speeds. Only stumbled once or twice, not like before where it was barely driveable. But now the needle seems to be randomly bouncing back between these two positions. And like I said lights come on at a full stop.

Are there other connections I should be chasing down? Was it likely that the only thing I fixed when I cleaned the grounds/alternator was unplugging the battery for a while? I'm stumped again. Oh also once I buttoned everything up last night the operating voltage at the battery checked out. I didn't check the alt since everything seemed ok.

 

Is your belt tight ?/

Maybe one of your connections loosened up.

The nut on the Alternator B terminal?/

The plug on the alternator locked in place.

i think something vibrated loose

Get your meter out and take readings to see what you really have.

 

Everything is tight as a drum, first thing I checked. Cold start this morning = no symptoms. Drives aok. 20 minute drive and the voltage drops about .5. But no warning lights and no stumbling. I've heard some people who had problems with the egr system. Is this something I should be looking at? Maybe ecu?

 

It's gotten really bad now, I can't get it to move at all it's stumbling so bad. I still get all the warning lights on start up and it has no power.

Unplugged the tps, it seemed to idle easier but still no go. Its basically not getting any spark. I can smell the fuel being dumped into the chambers.

Kindof trapped, any emergency suggestions?

 

Oh also, the engine is showing a code 51, which is what lead me to unplug the TPS.

 

This similar problem is starting to occur on my 85 4runner 22re and im wondering if you ever got it fixed or are even still on here lol thanks

 

Girls In Your City - No Selfie - Anonymous Sex Dating
https://SecreLocal.com

Girls In Your Town - Anonymous Casual Dating - No Verify