I replaced the master and slave cylinder this fall and bled the clutch out until it ran clear. The master cylinder was leaking pretty bad into the cab when I replaced it. I unfortunately don't know how old the clutch itself is since I've only had it for a year. My question is, can I adjust the pedal in the cab to eliminate this problem, and should it lengthen or shorten the pushrod?

 

Hi
first thing i would do is check clutch fiuld level. how easy is the gear change with the engine turned off. press clutch pedal does it feel spongy or sinks to floor. Another test is put in fourth lift clutch if it dosent stall then clutch plate is slipping or at end of life span. normally if slipping you get a burning smell or going up hill when you press accelator revs rise and no increase in speed. on a different car several years ago my clutch fork bent. thst is the bit that seperates ckutch plate from flywheel operated by clutch pedal.
Sorry if jumbled but feel free to ask questions

 

Ps think most clutches are self adjusting. don't know about toyotas at this age. mine is an auto so cannot compare with yours.

 

Fluid is full, it shifts into gear when not running nice and smooth. When it is running it won't shift at all unless I gently hold the stick against the next gear as I decelerate, then it will pop in. Getting it into first or reverse when I first start in the morning is nearly impossible. Also, it will take off in first or reverse with the clutch pedal pushed all of the way in.

 

Something similar happened to my truck when the master cylinder was going bad, and it was REALLY cold out.

My guess is that you either have air or moisture in your fluid, or got a bad master cylinder.

But there are adjustments to both the pushrod in the slave cylinder, and the master and how it connects to your clutch pedal.

But seeing your location and knowing what temps we've been dealing with, this sounds like exactly what was happening to my truck a few winters back. When I replaced my master cylinder it took care of the problem. It was weird...I could sit there idling in first gear with the clutch out...not moving. Push the clutch in and it would start trying to creep forward.

Something weird going on with the hydraulic system and extreme cold.

 

It didn't start giving me guff until it got really cold, like low single digits. I'm going to check my bracket in about a half hour and make sure it didn't crack or bend.

 

When you put new fluid in it, was it old? Had it sat around for a while? I have heard that brake fluid tends to absorb moisture when it's sitting out in a container that's been opened already.

There is a chance you've got moisture in your fluid so the hydraulics aren't working how they should once it gets cold enough to freeze that moisture.

Or there's a chance I'm making up crazy s**t.

 

I went and checked the bracket, and it's fine. So I decided to mess with the adjustment on the pedal, and screwed the c bracket all of the way to the end of the threads and got it to work, and off of the floor. It didn't come up much though, so I'm still going bleed the system again. It was fresh fluid when I replaced my cylinders and no precipitation when I changed them either. I think Ill go to my shop tonight and take a good look at my shift fork too.

 

Well, worst case, it'll probably get better tomorrow when it warms up!

But it won't be fixed...It'll just be fixed till the next sub-zero stretch.

 

I never got to my shop tonight, but I will tomorrow. I need to check and see if my rear main has a leak. Do you know if the clutch smokes or has an odd smell if there is oil on it? I searched for too long on here without any answer.

 

Yes, it probably would.

It might also slip/burn if the hydrualic system isn't allowing to fully engage and disengage.

 

I had the exact symptoms happen to my jeep and it was the pressure plate, however the last miles before it let go there was a loud screeching sound associated with it. If you problem changes with temperature, I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the hydrolic fluid and/or cylinder and not the clutch/pressure plate itself.

 

I'm in the process of moving right now, so this is making my life really difficult. It did warm up about 10 degrees or so, maybe there will be a bit of a difference, who knows. I don't have any indication of the clutch burning and I had my wife push on the pedal while I was under the truck last night, the slave is moving the fork pretty well, but I haven't driven it yet today.

 

Hi
i had a nissan terrano diesel with manual box. had identical prob. bled and bled the system. Even tried bleeding upwards from bleed nipole on slave cylinder. hoping air trapped would float upwards.turns out i needed a new pipe without a one way return. air was getting trapped.

 

So I fixed the problem a while back be replacing the master and slave cylinders. About two weeks later it happened again, no amount of bleeding brings the pedal back. So I replaced the clutch, flywheel and bearings because it was needing it anyway, but while I was at, I dropped a new master and slave in ( they were warrantied) as well as blowing all of the fluid out if my line. That was New Year's Day, and this morning I had no clutch again. I've ruled out weather conditions because it has been 45 since last week, all fluid is fresh and clear out of a newly opened bottle, no cracked pedal bracket, new pressure plate and bearings, bench bled master and pre filled slave to eliminate bubbles. I have a new slave ready to go in, but I must be doing something wrong. Any ideas?

 

Hi
can i ask a stupid question how are you bleeding the system. 2 man or eazibleed using tyre air pressure. 2 man is better. undo nipple get clutch pressed down tighten nipple lift clutch pedal until no air bubbles in fluid. a rubber hose from bleed nipple in a clear jar will allow you to see air bubbles. What dot fluid are you useing. sorry if this sounds patronizing. :-)
:-) :-)

 

Doing two man bleed and using dot 3

 

Who ever is pushing clutch pedal does it feel different when bleed nipple is open. if it feels harder then there is a air bubble some where in system. if it feels soft then no air. as i have an auto i cannot look at clutch mechamizim. under dash do you have plastic cogs attached to clutch pedal. if they are worn then thats your prob. If you have cogs these are psrt of self adjusting mechizim. a PITA job.

 

No cogs, it's a metal pushrods from my pedal into master cylinder. It feels harder until I bleed the system for a while (10-12times), then it softens up. I get air out of it when I bleed, but I can't figure out how air is getting back into the system when everything is tight.

 

Hi
obviously there is no leaks. when you replace the master and slave cynlinder do they have screw threads. if they do you could some plumbers ptfa (?) tape around them. this stop air from leaking into system. also a rapid temperture drop could cause the joins to slightly expand. reason for this is when ever i change coolant or radiator i tighten everything up tight then after a couple of heating cooling cycles sometimes i can do a full turn on jubilee clips. when you take a wheel off you are suppost to check nut tightness after 30-50 miles. only had one vehicle that i suggaged to keep one nut tight.
the pressure of hydrulic pressure could slightly open a join even if it feels tight.