Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Clutch pedal in the floor and shifting is getting more difficult.

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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #21  
warmonger88's Avatar
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From: Moscow, ID
I might try that, I'm losing it again from just an 8 mile drive to work.
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 12:46 PM
  #22  
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From: N. Shore MA
Since you seem to be bleeding it properly and have air getting in again AFTER the fact, I doubt this is a help, but just in case: the bleeding procedure from the PBB Toyota Bible
Clutch Master by RocKrawler

Clutch Master Cylinder Bleeding Instructions
I had a biatch of a time when I replaced my clutch master trying to get the darn thing bled. No matter how much I bled it, the pedal was still a sponge. After placing a call to a buddy who works at a Toyota wrecking yard, his mechanic gave me this quick tip and it worked perfect the first time, even if you didnt bench bleed it before bolting it up to the firewall:

1.) Adjust the bracket that pins to the clutch pedal so that it has about 1/4" free play
2.) Fill the Clutch Master cyl resevoir ( duh )
3.) Open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder ( on the bellhousing for newbies, pass side, follow the hydraulic line from the clutch master down, you'll see it ) and without pumping the pedal, just let it drain until the resevoir is about 1/2 empty.
4.) Close the bleeder and fill the resevoir
5.) Have someone pump the clutch 5 times and hold, open the bleeder at the slave & bleed the system, closing the valve before fluid flow stops ( again for newbies )
6.) Repeat step 5 until there is no more air bubbles when you bleed the system.

If you followed the directions, you should have noticable clutch within 3 bleeding cycles, and be done within 6 cycles, whether or not you bench bled the clutch master before installing.
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #23  
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From: Moscow, ID
I appreciate the input, I'm going to try some thread tape and bleed it again. If I can get it to keep working this time, I'll save the aisin master and slave for my engine swap. I was considering changing the soft between body and engine with a braided stainless brake line, and see if I can get a new hard line for between that and the slave.
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 02:11 AM
  #24  
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From: john o groats
Hi
changing to hard lines or using goodridge reinforced pipe will elmniate any ballooning of pipes. this will then rule this out. if your going to change hydruric pipes find a hydruric pipe manufacturer near you to make up the pipes. Got one near me who knows 4wd inside and out and knows tricks on pipes to avoid this problem.
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #25  
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From: a van down by the river
When I had similar problems with mine, the flex hose was the problem. If you replace yours and find the inside to be deteriorated, make sure no chunks are floating in the fluid.
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:48 AM
  #26  
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From: Moscow, ID
I checked the fluid that came out of tithe slave last time I changed it and it had no chunks. I thread taped the fittings last night, I'm going to take a look at the fitting when I get off work today and see if there are any leaks.hopefully it will get me by until I do a motor swap, then I'm going to have some new lines made.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 03:35 PM
  #27  
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From: Moscow, ID
The soft line between the firewall and slave cylinder wasn't bulging or anything, but I replaced it with a new stainless braided one from lcengineering and aisin master and slave cylinders, it is tight as a drum now. Excellent pressure and it does not get spongy for any reason. I gravity bled the system after bench bleeding everything, checked it with a buddy pumping and had zero bubbles first time. If you are having this issue, I suggest lc's hose and some quality cylinders.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #28  
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From: john o groats
Hi
good to hear you have sorted problem out
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