94 4runner 3.0 5spd 188K miles

Recently started parking vehicle in the garage since weather is colder.
When I pulled out of the drive I noticed a ploom of white smoke and immediately made a U-Turn and went back to the house. It continued to blow white smoke as I pulled it back in the drive.

I turned the vehicle off and could smell coolant. I checked under the hood and it looked like there was some light smoke coming from the drivers side of the engine middle to back of the engine.

When I tried to start it again I get a hard thud an no start. Hasn't started since. It is not turning over which has me nervous. Just a clunk.

Problems that I am aware of - Rear main oil leak, has been like that since I bought it and have just been monitoring oil level.

Things I have done today:
Checked the oil - Level looks good no discoloring
Checked the coolant - Still green no funky colors
No coolant leaking under the vehicle
Prepared to go cheer on the Hokies while they beat up on Duke.

Things that I have done in my crude garage in the last 6 months
1. Replaced radiator, valve cover gaskets replaced, spark plugs
2. K&N intake/filter
3. Replaced front shocks, rotors, calipers, front stabilizer early May
4. 9,000 mile cross country trip end of May - NO ISSUES
5. Replaced Timing belt, P/S pump, water pump, thermostat, idler pulleys, and tensioner, spark plug wires, in July and have driven 5k miles since then.


I'm fearing the worst but here are a few thoughts that have crossed my head.
1. head gasket, possibly worse with the clunking noise when trying to start. but why no leaking coolant, no funky oil or coolant.
2. Starter? but why the white smoke and coolant smell
3. stuck fuel injector causing white smoke - but why the no start with clunk and coolant smell
4. fuel filter?
5. Could the timing belt have slipped off one or two notches (causing the thump when starting) and also causing white smoke while running rough?

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I don't have the money to put into towing and diagnostics if I can do this myself. This is my primary vehicle (by choice) and luckily I can walk to work easily so I have plenty of time to diagnose and work once i know where to start.

Thanks,

 

Just a quick update. I just tried to start it again and it did fire up very hesitantly (THANK GOODNESS) and idled OK.

Once any gas was given it started blowing the white smoke furiously, very little power.

Again, and help would be appreciated.

 

rich fuel condition is black smoke, not white.

white smoke with a coolant smell at the tailpipe does sound like a potential head gasket issue.

I believe that you can get a test for that at the auto parts store... I've never done it, but I believe that it looks for exhaust gas residue in the coolant??

 

Yeah, just look for brown foam on oil cap or residue in top of radiator. You just described what is most likely a head gasket failure. No power because the cylinders can't keep compression up.

 

So lets say that the oil looks fine, and the coolant too. I've checked the radiator and oil caps. Any ways you know how to figure out for sure you have a head gasket leak without just tearing down to it?

I don't want to drive it with low power and potentially cause more damage and or end up with a tow bill.

 

It's probably the head gasket.

Take off radiator cap and start it up. Rev it a couple times. Any coolant shooting out of radiator cap hole?

Has coolant level dropped at all?



do a compression test


One thing you must know A toyota is Japanese. They have honor. When Toyota makes something that doesnt live up to it's potential...the 3.0 v6,
it must commit suicide rather than be disgraced.

Every 3.0 is destined to commit suicide because it has brought dishonor to Toyota.

 

You mentioned smoke at middle/rear drivers side.
It's possible that coolant is entering #6 cylinder after it sits (blown gasket) and
when you start it, coolant is burning off (washing piston) therefore white smoke.

 

Easy. No reason to have this turn into another argument about 3.0 head gaskets. I'm young and self-taught through these forums. So of course I am going to make mistakes.

I agree it is most likely a head gasket which is why I wanted to see if there were any other things that could possibly cause it before I tear into things.

The vehicle was on for less that a minute when it first blew white smoke and was started once more, which may have been a bad move.

I took out the plugs and see the #6 was extremely fouled, coolant is barely low so I'm guessing that it did get in the oil but not enough to change color/consistency.

So my next question, since it appears only #6 is affected can I just change the head gasket on the left cylinder and leave the right alone for now? I'm looking to do this as a temporary fix to a larger issue so that I have a running vehicle.

The haynes manual seems to think that is OK considering they say IF you are removing the right head do this.. if you are removing the left head do this...

If I can avoid breaking down to timing belt again I would love that. It looks like the left cylinder head only includes these things:

remove radiator, air filter/hoses, alternator, dipstick tube, exhaust manifold, cylinder head covers, camshaft (I've seen people say this is not necessary), and then the head.

 

The timing belt is coming off whatever way you do it. The smart thing is to replace both(head gaskets) while you're in there.

And here, use this.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Just do exactly what it says to do. You'll be fine. And you can skip the pages instructing you to remove the valves. Unless you plan on replacing them, they can stay put. No, you don't need to replace the head bolts. Yes, you do need to remove the crossover.

 

Everyone simmer down. It's a blown headgasket. Not hard to figure out with a 3.0. Make sure to pull both heads and replace both sides as previously stated. May be good idea to just yank the motor and check the bottom end. Put it all back together outside the rig then drop it in as a whole unit. More than likely you're have some exhaust studs pulling our or nuts getting rounded. Good luck.

 

I think that you want to do both heads at once because you will want to have the suspect head checked and machined. If you machine one but not the other, the intake manifold may not fit properly.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I guess I know what I am doing this weekend.

Would a cracked Block be easy to identify? What should I be looking for once I get the heads off?

 

So I'm pretty far along. Struggling to get the bolts from the header to the wrap around exhaust piece. Any tips on getting to those?

The other issue I am having is getting the camshaft pully's removed - they just want to spin and I'm paranoid about them getting out of line. So I've been careful to make sure they are back to the right locations for TDC. I've tried impact wrench but they still move. Is the only reason I need to remove these so that I can get that black plate behind them off? I've seen some comments of people just cutting that black plate down the middle (and then using some kind of adhesive I assume when putting it back together. Any recommendations on this?

Last question It looks like the majority of the head bolts are E-?? Does anyone know the size, I'd like to just pick up one instead of the whole set.

I have tons of pictures and do plan on doing a nice write-up on this as I rebuild it.

 

I got everything off.

As mush as people talk one way or the other I went ahead and got a set of headers from LC engineering.

I also am getting my heads done so they should be nice and level for putting things back.

Here is my question and pictures to help.







See the little mark that was left from the piston hitting I assume the broken gasket on #6. Is this little mark going to cause any issues. There isn't a crack and I can easily rotate the crank with my wrench. No catching and seems to be fine.

Thanks in adavance.

 

Let me try that again