So I have this 94 4Runner in my garage been working on for awhile on and off. I would like to sell it soon. And in order to do that, I need it to run.

So from sitting in the garage for over a year and change, the main fuel line rotted off. So I dropped the tank, patched the line with rubber FI hose.

Now, went to start, kinda fired. But it sounded like the dizzy was off. So I zeroed it out. Im positive its lined up. Cranked, and nothing. Shot a bit of ether into it, and it sputtered a bit.

The pump is running with the VAFM flapper pushed open. There are no leaks as I can see. Is there something that controls injector power? Like on my 22RE Celica and 5MGE Supra, theres a resistor box for power.

Thanks!

 

Hows the fuel filter? My Z sat for about 2 years in my garage with fuel still in the filter/lines and became pretty gummed up.

 

What does "zeroed it out" mean? Do you mean you set the timing to 0º? It probably won't run there. Of course, if you're not using a timing light to set ignition timing, it's unlikely you'll ever get it to run.

The "resistor box" was for low-impedance injectors, which haven't been used on Toyota trucks since the 80s.

If the truck won't run on starting fluid, then fuel is probably not your (main) problem. Use a timing light to set the timing, and you can also use it to check for spark on each plug.

 

Im not sure what your method for ignition base timing is, but you usually set the crank to 0 degrees, and align the dizzy rotor to number one. Then once the vehicle is running, you set the timing to the specified place with the timing light.

I shouldve clarified on the starting fliud part, I didnt have much in the can to let the truck run off of it, but it fired up.

I dont remember exactly, but is there an easy way to check fuel pressure on this truck? Or do I have to pull the plenum?

 

What sayeth the Good Book? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...87fuelpump.pdf

The Toyota SST attaches at the Cold Start Injector. It's a little easier to find the banjo bolt-Schraeder adapter in 12mm, so you can connect it at the fuel pressure regulator next to the distributor. This gauge comes with the correct adapter: http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16173 Neither location requires removal of the plenum (but the CSI is easier to get to).

DON'T FORGET that you need to replace the aluminum crush washers (2). Technically, you need four because of the two used with the adapter, but you can probably get away with re-using the old washers just for the pressure test.

 

I appreciate the link!

But I fixed the problem yesterday. First off, I am a dumbass. My dad decided to redo the dizzy timing and nothing else happened. So I told him its def a fuel problem so we found a fresh can of ether in his stash and the truck ran off of it. So he crawled under and looked at the rubber fuel line I had to patch from the sending unit. Turns out when I put the tank back up, the path I thought the line followed to be curved, ended up having a kink in it.

So then it ran after that. Haha