I have read every thread on here tagged with "oil pump" and "front main seal" and there seems to be some confusion as to whether or not the radiator, fan, belts, etc need to be removed to gain access to the front main seal.

I just replaced the main seal without removing any of those things, no problem at all.

I should've replaced the oil pump o-ring at the same time, after I finished I noticed some oozing from around the oil pump housing.

Just thought I'd squash the confusion, here is proof:

 

LIAR

Nice contortionist act The usual reason to pull that other stuff is to get a pully remover in there. Did you use one, if so what style?

 

I didn't have to use a puller, I gave it a little tug and it just about flew off.

The crank pulley bolt was a non issue either, I used a really long breaker bar.

 

The usual question is not how you got enough torque on the bolt (your answer is simple enough), but how you kept the crank from turning. Presumably, you have some sort of tool (many, many described on this forum, but I'd like to hear about yours). A tool you'll need to use again to put that bolt in, to 116 ft-lbs.

 

I assume his "tool" was inserting gear shifter lever into 4th gear, letting out on the clutch, and pulling the parking brake handle.

 

I tightened the crank bolt back down with a 3/8 drive torque wrench to 116 ft lbs, no issue there. I just had to use a breaker bar to bust it loose.

To loosen the bolt I put the tranny in 4th gear and had someone stand on the brakes, worked like a charm (:

 

Did you consider using loctite on the bolt, I know the fsm doesn't call for it but if that bolt ever comes loose while running, at best you end up with a wrecked harmonic balancer keyway, at worst a wrecked crankshaft keyway that is a very expensive repair. Been there with the crank with a diesel in my old 4runner but now Have to do this job with my 3rz so I'm considering the options etc

 

I wouldn't use loctite on a 116 ftlb bolt. Many more people on this forum sweat getting that bolt out, than have ever reported throwing the bolt.

Of course, if you don't reinstall it to the full torque, not even loctite would help.

 

I replace front main seals in the truck on 22r's and 22re's all the time WITHOUT removing the radiator, fan, belts, etc. I can do it in under 30 min. I bought a seal puller from harbor freight. I cut out about 2" from the HF puller and welded it back together. There is just enough room from the bottom to lightly tap the handle on the puller to make the seal pop out. I also put a thin piece of wood to cover the radiator just in case I miss the puller with the hammer. I also fabbed up a little round "cup" that is the inside diameter of the seal. I use the crank bolt and the little cup to get the new seal in. I just lightly tighten the crankbolt that goes through the little cup and the seal slowly snugs down on. I do this because it is very hard to get an even seat and seal on the main seal as it goes in. There is no room to tap it in. The little cup method works flawlessly.
To torque the crankbolt I put the rig in gear apply the breaks or remove the valve cover to inhibit the crank from turning. Torque to 115 ftlbs.
Never had one problem doing this method. I have done hundreds of them. It beats tearing apart the entire front end.
I have seen many front seals that appear to be leaking that are not actually the front main seal. Rather, the oil pan gasket or the valve cover or the seal on the oil pump may be leaking and the air and vibration spin oil around the pulley and make it appear oil is leaking from the front main. It takes a little degreaser, good cleaning and a trip to the market and back to determine exactly where leaks are coming from in that area.

 

Just wanted to add/ bring this up. So people ate saving headaches. I did same thing. Used to be a mechanic so u learn to save time.remove bottom fan shroud (clipped in shroud part.) Remove the belts. (5 mins tops total up to here). Remove the power to the distributor so your engine won't start/spark. Put an 18"-24" breaker bar on the crank bolt and position it under your passenger side frame. I rested mine on the leaf spring and it hit on the frame itself after coupe inches of travel. Was easiest way to do it. Hit the ignition for a split second you will hear a pop/knock.. *your bolt is loose*. If you have trouble just tape the bar to the frame with any tape. Now remove crank bolt and pulley by hand. Position it in between the wide fan blades openings to remove with clearance. Pop out your seal. Then put it back together. 30 minute job. Ez =) good luck everyone. This was done on 1985 4 runner 22re.

 

I did it this way as well and used a bungee to secure the breaker bar to the frame. It was surprising how well it worked. Otherwise there's too much flex in the crank/drivetrain to apply adequate force with just a breaker, even in high gear with the parking brake applied.

 

That is a great idea. Bungee cords ftw! =)

 

Recently i replaced my front oil seal twice with the confidence that i was doing the job correct and still i continue too leak oil. The obvious has been gone through including tight oil pan plug also tight oil filter. Pulling the oil seal for me was a big pain and wasnt nearly as easy as the vids i watched. Had too use a brass punch and hammer the seal out both times and from there followed the rest process. When i finally decided too pull the oil pump the first time i noticed one of the 5 bolds was missing (bolt A top bolt that requires a high temp glue) and i was then convinced that this was my prob. I was not able too determine the exact length of the bolt but ran a diff bolt in there and turned it about 2 1/2 revelations into the thread. I also want too add that the second time around i ended up stripping the bolt at roughly 10ft lbs torque. Once i had everything put back together i then started the engine, checked for leaks (which i had none at the time) and took it for a county block cruise reaching speeds up too 60mph. Both times i pulled my truck into the garage im noticing oil all over the lower half of my enigine and excessive dripping from the front end. Wanted too add that this only happens while me truck is in gear at higher speeds. Could and would i be loosing this much oil out of the top bold on my oil pump?? Ive only owned this truck for a little over 2 months and didnt notice any oil leaks up until about 2 weeks ago when getting gas i had a large puddle of oil under my truck.

 

The timing cover uses different sized bolts. The one that uses the sealant is its own certain length. With out sealant it will leak. If the PO left that bolt out, I would check all the other bolts as well as they probably have them mixed up as well.

 

Thx for the reply, changed the seal for the second time and still leaking from the front around the crankshaft seal area. I double checked the bolts holding the oil pan. They were all loose and i suspect the pan/seal have never been replaced. I tightened all the oil pan bolts and took it for a test drive...still leakinh oil. Ive been looking online and calling local scrap yards looking for new oil pump bolts specifically bolt "A" the only bolt that requires sealant. DOES ANYONE KNOW THE LENGTH OF BOLT "A"??? Or know where i cam order new bolts? Thx in advance.

 

It may cost a little more, but you can always get parts from your local Toyota dealer.

 

Groove worn in harmonic balancer from miles and miles and miles..... of driving.<br/><br/>






Redi-sleeve installed over harmonic balancer. Make sure to deburred edge of sleeve or it may damage new seal on installation

Some will say not the right way to fix issue. But it buys time.

 

That would be my conclusion, also, a groove worn into crankshaft. Toyota makes a replacement seal for this condition, that is thinner, and rides in a different location on crankshaft.

 

Did this today and took all but 30 minutes. Took longer to gather and store my tools. I did have loosen belts in order to remove lower pulley. Removal was simple with the right tool. Now just have to see if that seals it up.

 

Nice job! I pulled my radiator, fan, etc. t replace the timing chain and same here, the crankshaft bolt came off using a long breaker bar and I tapped the starter to loosen it. The pulley just came off by wiggling so I didn't get to use my crank pulley puller.