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I need to try to break down to my head in one piece hopefuly

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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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I need to try to break down to my head in one piece hopefuly

http://http://https://www.yotatech.c...o=7120&cat=500

Ok so from my last thread i was talking about my gasket being blown, well im in the process of breaking down my motor, im down to my rocker arm assembly my mechanic friends said i need to try to take every thing down to the head off all at once cause everything is gummed up with the oil/antifreeze mix. how exactly am i gonna do that heres a picture of my motor as it is now.

Last edited by VanceB87401; Jan 13, 2013 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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http://http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net...67879075_n.jpg
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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 11:08 AM
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:59 AM
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Here is your/his picture.



Get your friend to elaborate, and while he's there help.

The FSM instructions are here. and they do in fact say to remove the exhaust head and intake while still assembled :shrug:
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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That looks pretty bad. I wonder if it matters whether you take it all off at once, or take it off piece by piece? My thought is you will need to disassemble and clean every piece anyhow.

Personally, I would pull the engine and do a pretty thorough cleaning and rebuild.

Good luck with whichever route you take!
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:44 AM
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That engine needs to be rebuilt. New bearings bottom and top, not to mention a through cleaning...

Looks like you waited a little to long to fix the timing chain...?
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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just because no one has said it yet, milkshakes are tastey
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Grego92
I wonder if it matters whether you take it all off at once, or take it off piece by piece?
I think it's easier to do it as an assembly. The intake side is a little tight to the fender apron and hoses, and the exhaust side is a little tight to the steering rod.

The original thread is here

The only way I know of to get all the oil-water/"honey sludge" out is to have the block hot tanked. It might not be too damaged, even though it was driven for the two'ish weeks after the initial failure. It will need all the bearing surfaces inspected. Pitting uneven wear ect..

Just judging by the color it looks like more oil than water, but that could be from red glycol, and might not of overheated anything to destruction.

IIRC the rebuild time is about 16.5hrs(?), expect that to take two times longer if you've never done it or four times longer if you've never done a rebuild at all. And there are specialty tools involved, calipers, dial guage, spring compressors ect..


just because no one has said it yet, milkshakes are tastey
Looks more like the local mud where I'm at, and it's definately not Tastey.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:16 PM
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My friend was saying lets just get a small crane and pull the whole engine out and tear it down and see how it looks, but if im gonna do that i might as well go for a new used motor ive already called around for one and found one the guy said it had 64,000 miles on it for $850, but the issue with that is i dont have $850
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:42 PM
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Well, this is what I would do if I didn't have the money to repair right now.

1. Since I like 1st Gen 4runners (even though I don't own one) I would want to keep it. Not to be mean, but I initially checked where you were located at in case you might want to sell me your 87' 4runner but you're out of state from me.

2. Pull the engine and clean up all that mess from the parts to prevent more damage.

3. Scrape up the money to at least have the block, head, cam, crank, and rocker assembly cleaned, checked, and repaired (if needed) at a machine shop. Hopefully all you will need is honing on the cylinder walls.

4. Keep all your parts in order and lubed (if necessary) with some light oil or wd40 to keep them from rusting while you Save Money.

5. Research rebuilding the 22re on Yotatech while you're saving money. Also, research what else you could/should replace while you have the engine out (ie. clutch)

6. Buy parts and stuff as you can. (ie. bearings, pistons and/or rings, timing kit, gaskets, seals, tools, fipg, etc.....)

7. Start assembling the engine on an engine stand.

8. Might as well clean the engine bay out while you're waiting.

Last edited by Grego92; Jan 15, 2013 at 04:44 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by VanceB87401
My friend was saying lets just get a small crane and pull the whole engine out and tear it down and see how it looks, but if im gonna do that i might as well go for a new used motor ive already called around for one and found one the guy said it had 64,000 miles on it for $850, but the issue with that is i dont have $850
Plus you never really know what you are going to get with a used engine. You would probably be a lot happier rebuilding what you've got in the long run. Who knows how accurate that mileage quote is or what maintenance has (or hasn't) been done.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:46 PM
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yeah well i know i need to replace my rad, thermostat, oil and water pump, timing chain. i replaced my clutch about 6 or so months ago so that's good right now
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Oh yeah radiator...it might still be good, take it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned and tested also.
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