It will crank over very easily, almost too easily or freely with no feel of trying to start. The belts turn the fan on the motor. fuses under hood and under dash have been checked and are good. I jumped the FP and B, I hear a hum by the tank, but it will not start while jumped. T1 to E1 jumped for diagnostic codes gave me a code 12. So I checked the coil resistance from + to - on coil is 6ohm and from + to coil wire terminal gives me 12.5kohm. I also used the meter to test the VDC coming from the coil terminal while cranking it over and got 11 to 12VCD, I thought it should have been about 20k plus? Pulled the plug wire from 1st plug and used a screw stuck in wire and put it close to the bracket on the top of the motor and had someone crank it over to see if I could see a spark and i was not able to see one. I have pulled off the coil and Ignitor as they come off together to take to Orielly's to have checked if they can do that. Anyone have any ideas?

 

It never hurts to start with the manual. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/onvehicl.pdf

Code 12 says you're missing the NE or G signal (which come from the distributor). Since you have a multimeter, you could run through the FSM distributor tests (but never forget that code 12 means the signal is not getting to the ECM, so don't overlook the wiring).

While you're at O'Reilly's pick up a cheap timing light. It's much easier to look for spark by just seeing if the timing light fires with the pickup on various leads. And you'll need it for timing soon enough.

You'll never be able to measure the voltage of the very narrow high-voltage pulse coming from the coil using a multimeter. At least without destroying the multimeter and giving the user a hell of a shock. A timing light will do it nicely, though.

 

Ok, so I followed your directions and did the steps directed and i noted my results next to each step on the picture above to the last step where it directs me to EG1-137 or 155. That is where I am as of tonight, but I am getting very nervous as it seems to be pointing in the direction of the igniter or the ECM does that sound right? $$$ Please look at the picture to see my results and see if something looks wrong. On the step where it directs me to EG1-137 or 155 I am lost, my ECM has only two connectors to it not three? And if I understand it right it wants me to do this check while the truck is idling? But it won't run?

P.S. I bought a cheap timing light that has red and black clips to the battery and one the to the plug wire, I jumped the E1 - TE1 cranked it over and got no light?

 

Well I just tried to crank it over with the distributor cap off and I noticed that the rotor did not turn?

 

I guess I need to go pull the valve cover now, I'll update on what I find.

 

Did you try and turn the dizzy rotor by hand, maybe shaft is broken?

 

Yeah, I did and it was tight and didn't turn. As a matter of fact when I did the air gap check is when I first remember trying to turn it and its position. Then later I took off the cap again and noticed its position was in the exact same spot. That is when I had someone crank it over while I watched the rotor. The motor turned over but the rotor stayed still.

1. If it is the timing chain is it worth fixing?
2. Can it be done without removing the head and oil pan with the block still in the truck?
3. Is there a list of parts or complete kit for this?

Any info or tips from you all who have had this and done this would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. Is there a place to introduce myself to the Yotatechers?

 

Before You pull the valve cover why don't you try taking out dizzy first. I'm not really familiar with your motor as mine is a 6cyl, but just basic's would tell me to pull dizzy first. Just a thought. Good luck

 

I know it has been a while since I last posted about this issue.

Here is what I have found out: I took off the distributor cap and had someone crank it over, the starter cranked but the rotor on the distributor did NOT move. So I am going to say it lost the timing chain.

When it broke I had pulled in to a gas station parking lot and shut it off with no problems, then when I got in it to leave the gas station I tried to crank it over and got the problem of it cranking over too easily. So I do not think it broke while I was driving it, but it seems to have broke as I shut it off to go in to the gas station?

After I tried to start it and it would not start. I tried to roll start it on the hill next to the gas station and it would not start.

I have heard that when a timing chain breaks on the 22re it can not be rebuilt or something like the head has to be replaced?

Question is: Is it able to OR worth trying to replace the timing chain?

 

22re is an interference engine, pistons can contact valves if timing chain breaks. The only way to know extent of damage if any is to pull the head off.

 

Can you link to some pictures of what the valves or head damage would look like. I want to know what I am looking for when I get the head off.

 

Start of by pulling the valve cover and looking down the timing cover at the chain and/or the distributor shaft and gears(on the front of the cam). With the head off you would look for a gap between the valve and the seat or the valve looks off center on the seat or in the guide. If visually looks ok you can pour a little down the port and see if any fuel leaks between the valve and the seat. If no leaks there you should be able to lap the valves and reassemble. But in all honesty best method if you can afford it have the machine shop vacuum test the head

 

You can pour fuel down the port..sorry also dont forget to check the top of pistons

 

Had this same issue with a 86 I just bought. When the po pulled in the car wash it ran fine, when he was finished the truck wouldn't start, I pulled valve cover the timing chain was not on the sprocket. Pulled head to look for damage, none to the valves, good, cheap fix. Pulled timing chain cover, crank sprocket shattered. Would still not be to bad but cam is thrashed on front bearing surface, front cam saddle badly worn, cam wil rock on center saddle. Need head work or new head. But the rest of the engine is wore the f?*! Out. Looking for new engine. Hope yours goes better.

 

I am located just south of Joplin. Once you get the cover off, you will be able to see what the chain looks like, most likely off and laying at the bottom of timing cover. If there is damage, it will at least have some knicks in the valves and pistons.

I wouldnt spend to much at a machine shop getting the head repaird if it was damaged badly as a new one can be bought for around $250. You will need to see what your pistons and cylinder walls look like as well. You may possibly gotten away without any damage but will need to wait and see what it looks like when you get the head off.