well, took my 4runner with 262k miles in for a pre-smog test,it'd sat in a backyard for the winter before I got it (yet started first try without protest) and so obviously it failed, not impossibly bad but it obviously needed some tlc. the smog techs suggested a tune up are running some system cleaner (they suggested one called guaranteed to pass)well, after replacing the oil (replaced with valvoline 10w-30 highmileage full synthetic) spark plugs (autolite platinum) a new fram airfilter and 2 bottles of techron fuel cleaner, I did a 250m roadtrip and got 25mpg. now the last thing on the list of replacements is the fuel filter, I picked up a wix filter on the suggestion of the kid at the counter, and it looks like the fuel filter is going to be pretty easy to get to, its under the passenger side door in between the two tires. any tips or suggestions? I searched the forums and there was a lot of threads talking about taking off tires and panels, but its right in plain sight and looks like I can change with with a few basic tools. am I delusional or could I be lucky?

 

It looks easy but it's not. It's one of the few items on these trucks that you can see, but in typical Toyota fashion you still need 4 joints in your forearm and double jointed fingers to actually get to it!! Mine is a 3.slo with automatic and 4x4, don't know if the 2x's or the 5-speeds have more room?

Seriously though it's not too tough. Spray the fittings down with plenty of PB Blaster the night before and let it soak overnight. The hardest part is finding room to swing a wrench and get any leverage.



Don't forget you need one wrench to hold the fitting and another to turn the nut!!

 

thanks, that's what I was thinking, it looks like its going to be a really tight fit and that's going to be the hard part. I didn't think of using something to loosen up the nuts, thanks for the suggestion. they look pretty clean but I'll see if I can get any, would wd-40 work?

oh yea, most definitely on the essentials list.

 

Honestly... WD40 just wont penetrate the way pb would.... That being said.. the stuff in pb that makes it penetrate better/faster also causes rust and corrosion, so....

 

Yes, pb blaster is way better at getting things apart. I had not heard of the rust and corrosion part but I always spray the fittings down with brake cleaner once it's all apart, and clean it up before I put it back together. A drop of oil on the threads and between the fuel line and the nut (or WD40 would work!!) will help it slide together much easier!!

 

i do have a can of brake cleaner

 

PB Blaster, not wd40 or brake cleaner.Pb is a true penatraing oil and not a lube like wd40.

 

brake cleaner of the clean up process, if PB is going to cause rust.

 

Spend the money on a real flare-nut wrench. Don't try it with your regular combo wrench; once you round over the brass nut you're, well, disadvantaged.

Think ahead: find which metric wrench fits (14mm?). Then you don't need to buy a set of flare nut wrenches, just get the one you need.

 

just picked up the pb blaster, will look for the nut wrench

 

^This. A set is pretty cheap, I paid $12 on sale. You'll use them on brake lines, power steering hoses, any flared nuts.