86 4runner starts ok but starts horribly after running for awhile
#1
86 4runner starts ok but starts horribly after running for awhile
The runner starts ok and idles fine. I can drive it for 20 mins or hours with no problem. As soon as I turn it off and try to start it back up again I sputter along like it's dying. The rpms hover around 300, no acceleration to speak of, the stick shakes back and forth like crazy. After a several minutes the rpms spike to 2000 and everything is fine again. If I wait 3-4 hours in between start times then no problems. The manual I have suggested this could be a bad ground so I am going to go hunt around for all of the grounds (anyone know how many there are in the engine area?) Any suggestions? Another weird thing - my gas gauge doesn't work and my gas light came on after I went through 6 gallons of gas on a full tank. FYI below: So in this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...rs-out-247460/ I chronicled putting back together and getting running a 1986 4runner 22R EFI, 5 speed Most recently I have done the following: Checked AFM Pull fuel pump back out to inspect Ran 2 fresh tanks of gas through the runner, one with HEET in it Check to fuel lines and aux fuel injector to make sure fuel was getting through Put new fuel filter in again Replaced the charcoal canister Replace upper and lower radiator hose Checked drive belts Found a not grounded ground wire on the back of the engine block, not sure where it grounds to? thanks, ara
#2
The ground wire on the back of the engine goes to one of the valve cover crown nuts. If the grounds are from 1986 then they will probably need updating. Especially if they're corroded or broken.
My rule of thumb is, no flow no go. The electricity has to have a way of going back to ground in order for anything to work right (alternator, spark plugs, ECU, gauges, etc). Replace the ground from the battery to body, battery to engine (passenger side), valve cover to body, engine to body (driver side near alternator) and if you feel like it, intake to body. Use either 8awg or 4awg.
For your fuel gauge, download the FSM..read it..love it..cherish it. Test the sender for the fuel gauge and the gauge itself.
My rule of thumb is, no flow no go. The electricity has to have a way of going back to ground in order for anything to work right (alternator, spark plugs, ECU, gauges, etc). Replace the ground from the battery to body, battery to engine (passenger side), valve cover to body, engine to body (driver side near alternator) and if you feel like it, intake to body. Use either 8awg or 4awg.
For your fuel gauge, download the FSM..read it..love it..cherish it. Test the sender for the fuel gauge and the gauge itself.
Last edited by Bassmastry101; Apr 22, 2012 at 07:36 AM.
#6
So I cleaned up the grounds and put them back where they needed to go.
I drove it about 10 miles. Stopped for lunch and then tried to started it up again.
Same thing happened. RPMs hung around 200-300, it sputtered and was really cranky for about 1-2 mins then the RPMs spiked and everything was back to normal.
So back to square one here.
I drove it about 10 miles. Stopped for lunch and then tried to started it up again.
Same thing happened. RPMs hung around 200-300, it sputtered and was really cranky for about 1-2 mins then the RPMs spiked and everything was back to normal.
So back to square one here.
#7
Went out for a highway drive Saturday. All went fine but then I tried to start it Sunday. It turns over but dies immediately.
So I went through the AFM check again and got these numbers:
E2-Vs 66.5
E2-Vc 179.4
E2-Vb 283
E2-Tha 1983
E1-Fc infin
On the dynamic tests
E1-Fc
Open 1.2
Closed infin
E2-Vs
closed 66.3
open to closed 66 - 500
So it looks like both off the dynamic tests aren't good. So I think my AFM is shot.
I spent Sunday afternoon going though the local parts yard here but no luck. There were a bunch of AFMs but all the wrong parts numbers. How interchangeable are the toyota AFMs? I am on a students budget so dropping $200 for a new one is not an option at the moment.
So I went through the AFM check again and got these numbers:
E2-Vs 66.5
E2-Vc 179.4
E2-Vb 283
E2-Tha 1983
E1-Fc infin
On the dynamic tests
E1-Fc
Open 1.2
Closed infin
E2-Vs
closed 66.3
open to closed 66 - 500
So it looks like both off the dynamic tests aren't good. So I think my AFM is shot.
I spent Sunday afternoon going though the local parts yard here but no luck. There were a bunch of AFMs but all the wrong parts numbers. How interchangeable are the toyota AFMs? I am on a students budget so dropping $200 for a new one is not an option at the moment.
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#11
@rworegon
No I haven't yet. I was testing the hoses a few minutes ago and a lot of them crackle when I pinch them. I need to dive into the factory manual to figure out which hoses are the vacuum hoses.
No I haven't yet. I was testing the hoses a few minutes ago and a lot of them crackle when I pinch them. I need to dive into the factory manual to figure out which hoses are the vacuum hoses.
#14
So here is what I did so far:
Replaced the vac lines, at least the ones I could find
And then the runner stopped working completely. Turns out I blew out the EFI fuse.
Replaced fuse and everything still died.
Today I swapped out the AFM and still no go.
I put in a new forward oxygen sensor so now the runner starts but sputters (well chugs) along at 150 rpm without dying but is definitely not drivable yet.
I am almost positive I still need to replace more vac lines but I am not sure where they are all at.
Any other suggestion?
Thanks!
ara
Replaced the vac lines, at least the ones I could find
And then the runner stopped working completely. Turns out I blew out the EFI fuse.
Replaced fuse and everything still died.
Today I swapped out the AFM and still no go.
I put in a new forward oxygen sensor so now the runner starts but sputters (well chugs) along at 150 rpm without dying but is definitely not drivable yet.
I am almost positive I still need to replace more vac lines but I am not sure where they are all at.
Any other suggestion?
Thanks!
ara
#15
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,125
Likes: 4
From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
The diagrams here may help. Click on the more info button:
http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...2254,2255,2315
http://www.toyotapartseast.com/Page_...2254,2255,2315
#16
Any rich smells of fuel? Cold start injector dumping unwanted fuel?(Leaking)
Lack of fuel there of?
Vacuum lines in there correct places?
Idle air control valve "sticking" and or faulty? --> Clean inspect and test for operation.
Dirty throttle body passages?
TPS(Throttle Postion Sensor) faulty?
Codes?
You can purchase AFM at local part stores... I purchased one from Autozone over a year ago and it still works perfectly... they are mostly re-built AFM's which in a sense if done right is perfectly fine.
Lack of fuel there of?
Vacuum lines in there correct places?
Idle air control valve "sticking" and or faulty? --> Clean inspect and test for operation.
Dirty throttle body passages?
TPS(Throttle Postion Sensor) faulty?
Codes?
You can purchase AFM at local part stores... I purchased one from Autozone over a year ago and it still works perfectly... they are mostly re-built AFM's which in a sense if done right is perfectly fine.
#18
Any rich smells of fuel? Cold start injector dumping unwanted fuel?(Leaking)
Nope. Not that I noticed.
Lack of fuel there of?
I cracked open the aux fuel injector and fuel sprayed out when I started it. Fuel pump is running.
Vacuum lines in there correct places?
I double checked that!
Idle air control valve "sticking" and or faulty? --> Clean inspect and test for operation.
Haven't checked. Will do that first thing tomorrow morning,
Dirty throttle body passages?
Need to check that too.
TPS(Throttle Postion Sensor) faulty?
Need to check that as well.
Codes?
I checked the codes and nothing came up.
Thank you for the additional lists!
ara
Nope. Not that I noticed.
Lack of fuel there of?
I cracked open the aux fuel injector and fuel sprayed out when I started it. Fuel pump is running.
Vacuum lines in there correct places?
I double checked that!
Idle air control valve "sticking" and or faulty? --> Clean inspect and test for operation.
Haven't checked. Will do that first thing tomorrow morning,
Dirty throttle body passages?
Need to check that too.
TPS(Throttle Postion Sensor) faulty?
Need to check that as well.
Codes?
I checked the codes and nothing came up.
Thank you for the additional lists!
ara
Last edited by kushiel; May 19, 2012 at 07:02 PM.
#19
Contributing Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 5,125
Likes: 4
From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side


