86 4runner starts ok but starts horribly after running for awhile
#41
Oh and there are two sensors under the throttle body. I replaced the one on the right with a brand new one. The sensor on the left (I don't remember the name) is the one I've been swapping out with the other from the parts yard.
#42
Some numbers from this morning
Solenoid Resistor
10 to B - 4.1 Ohms
20 to B - 4.1 Ohms
These are a little high, should be between 2-3 Ohms. Not sure if this would cause the problems I am seeing
Start Injector Time Switch
STA-STJ 53.4 (above 77 F)
STA-Ground 72.2 (not really sure which one is STA)
Water Temp Sensor
692 Ohms (I had the engine running for a little while this morning)
Solenoid Resistor
10 to B - 4.1 Ohms
20 to B - 4.1 Ohms
These are a little high, should be between 2-3 Ohms. Not sure if this would cause the problems I am seeing
Start Injector Time Switch
STA-STJ 53.4 (above 77 F)
STA-Ground 72.2 (not really sure which one is STA)
Water Temp Sensor
692 Ohms (I had the engine running for a little while this morning)
#43
Turns out it was the screw on the front of the throttle body (right side) not really sure what it does. But once we closed it down a little the loping stopped. Now we have another problem which I will start a new thread for.
#45
Probably the idle speed screw, the BIG slotted screw head on top of the throttle body. Turn your idle RPM down to around 750-800 RPM as you are likely hitting the high idle RPM cutout in the ECU. It sees a too high idle and cuts off the fuel injectors until the idle drops then it turns them back on.
#47
Thanks! Between recalibrating my TPS, adjusting throttle cable (was a bit tight which kept throttle from returning all the way to idle every time), and adjusting the idle speed screw down, my loping/surging idle issue has been fixed.
Now if I can find a replacement IAC valve...
Now if I can find a replacement IAC valve...
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