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ifs factory 4:88 swap ?s

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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runs-on-4's Avatar
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From: Bothell ,Washington
ifs factory 4:88 swap ?s

i scored a ifs 488 diff from chainsaw for 80 bucks but its a little differnt than mine. there seems to be vacume lines maybe for abs or something like that. which i dont think i have.

does anyone know what the big red circled thing is

and could i just unbolt the whole right side (two small circles) and bolt it up from there



oh i also scored this for 75 bucks yesterday hopefully going in this 3rd
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:07 PM
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that is know as a ADD tube. (automatic differential disconnect) you can install you non add tube. you just need to buy a seal and remove the stub thats behind the ADD tube. i just did this recently. you can see pictures of it on my build page. heres the link, near the bottom.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...9/index14.html
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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al the hardware that you mention is the ADD equipment, you can swap it for your manual hubs assembly (I suppose you have manual hubs and that's why you don't know what that is)

there is a lot of info right here about ADD to manual hubs conversion just use the search tool

and great score for $75 bucks!
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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thanks guys i would have tried to search but not knowing what to search for was my issue... guess i could have tried the fsm if i could find it aha..

and ya im in it at 155 for a locked 4:88 front diff.. now if i could only get a deal on the rear !
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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From: antelope valley
junk yard!
i paid 85 bucks for mine
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 11:52 AM
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You can also go the easy way by just disabling the ADD actuator...
Just pop the actuator off, move the slide and fork to the locked (4wd) position, seal the diaphragm air tubes with RTV, cap and re-assemble.
A little less work then swapping the shafts.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuwy123
You can also go the easy way by just disabling the ADD actuator...
Just pop the actuator off, move the slide and fork to the locked (4wd) position, seal the diaphragm air tubes with RTV, cap and re-assemble.
A little less work then swapping the shafts.
if you do this, you'll need to use some sort of retaining system to keep the fork from sliding back to the unlocked position - on mine I used a hose clamp as a spacer to keep it from sliding back. the only reason why i did this is because my bolts wouldn't work when trying to swap tubes. read through the ADD swap threads and there's more info on this.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 06:15 PM
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i was able to reuse the non ADD bolts. the swap is so easy tho and much cleaner look
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