I'm a noob to this community. I poked through the stickies and searched for awhile, but while I found a lot of interesting stuff, I didn't find information pertaining to my problem. Hence this post. The patient is a '95 DLX 4WD XTRA cab with the 22R-E mill. It has almost 81,000 miles on it and I bought it new. On Friday, it ran fine, idled normally, etc. at lunchtime. Leaving work, it idled roughly when cold and when warm. Idle speed has kicked from the standard 850 rpm to ~1200 rpm. Driving home, it had poor acceleration power and wanted to stall at lights as the idle was dropping so low. I checked the plug wires, coil, pickup coil and MAF with my VOM - all normal. Plugs are clean with the normal tan burn and correct gapping. Distributor and rotor are new, but I cleaned them anyway. I also cleaned out the throttle body and washed the K&N air filter. Fuel tank was down last summer and repaired due to a corroded through fuel output line on the pump carrier. That was a real PITA. After all this, it ran in the same sickly way when I went out and test drove it. Half way through the test drive, something changed. It got some power back, but the valves started rattling. Today, I adjusted the valves. I'm going to have to do it again - I wasn't fast enough and they got cold, so they're still rattling. On the test drive after this, when I rev the engine, the engine is just roaring through the K&N. It's very loud compared to what it used to be and it feels like it's lacking it's normal power. The exhaust manifold appears to be ok. Idle still is too fast - about 1200 when warm and it's still a bit rough. It's not missing, but it's loping randomly. Anyone have any thoughts on what I can prod next? Thanks!

 

Might want to check all the vacuum lines for leaks and also check the EGR valve and connections to that. I had a similar type of issue on my 22RE when I last worked on it. It had a sort of rough, loping idle and I thought that might be due to the new cam I had installed. Turns out a bolt holding the EGR tube to the intake had backed out and that caused a vacuum leak. I must have looked at that a dozen times but never noticed the missing bolt, but a buddy that stopped by one evening spotted it right away. He asked if I knew I had a missing bolt back there. Replaced the bolt and all was fine.

 

Thanks for your suggestion. I checked all of the vacuum lines and they all appear to be connected and intact. I'm contemplating just replacing all of the vacuum lines as they're 17 years old and it's not that expensive to do. All of the switches, valves and sensors are a different story. Guess I can call Toyota and see what they have to say, or may be able to diagnose.

 

Swapping out all the vacuum line help cure a problem or two on my '85:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ine_Pix/5.html

And was easier to do that than to track down the exact cause of the problem.

 

Sounds like you IACV (under the intake) is plugged. It controls idle air. Also Idle above 1k rpm kicks in "engine braking" to further mess with your head.

Is you engine breaking "violent" like you lift it kicks in? It could mean you TPS has failed also.

I would recomend cleaning first. A good strong engine flush and replacement with Zerex Red for Toyota's. Also Lucas brand fuel injector cleaner in the tank. Check your air filter and if you have not done it, have the dealer replace the fuel filter under the intake at the back. Just start with the basics before going crazy.

 

Have you checked the tps? Any check engine codes?

 

Well, I've ordered 2 kits of silicone vacuum tubing (Spectre brand). Also, I went by AutoZone in the futile attempt to have them read the diagnostic codes for me. My truck is a '95 - ODB1 connector, I'm told. They only do '96 forward with ODB2 connectors. That said, the manager and 3 employees came out and attempted to troubleshoot. Their consensus is a vacuum or air leak. So, when I come back from vacation, I'll pull the throttle body, clean it thoroughly and replace all of the hoses, gaskets, seals, etc. I drove it a little today and it seems to be getting worse. If it weren't my primary mode of transportation, and I had the time, and I had the money... yadda, yadda.. I'd pull the motor and rebuild it. Since I bought it I've bounced between "It's a great engine" to "I wish I'd bought the V-6". I'd love a few more ponies but I do love the torque for pulling trailers.

 

You can pull the codes yourself:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

 

Unless you don't have any paper clips or scrap wire...then you're out of luck.

 

You say it kicked from 850rpm to 1200rpm but its trying to stall? I dont get that but it sounds like a fuel issue by your description, i would be checking for a weak pump are cracked pickup.

 

So, after a week and a half in hell - cleaning out my parents overgrown landscaping in SC and pressure washing everything outside - I finally got back to the patient. I checked error codes, saw a 13 and thought OH S@#T. I pulled the EFI fuse to reset the ECU and now I get no codes. BTW, here's a good listing of OBD1 & OBD2 codes: http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ I've replaced all of the vacuum lines that I could get to short of pulling the TB and the problem still exists. In the past, I've had problems with the high pressure fuel line as it exits the pump carrier on the top side of the tank. I drained & dropped the tank, cleaned everything out and then put it back together. On the topside of the fuel pump carrier, the high pressure line had corroded through and I repaired it with JB Weld. It's lasted ~ 2 years and I can't find any evidence of a fuel leak. That doesn't say that the pump isn't going now or that I've got a clogged strainer or fuel filter. I'll have to look up how to change the filter and measure the fuel line pressure to the injectors.

 

I just changed the fuel filter - not a bad job at all if you access it through the passenger wheel well. Also, I pulled the throttle body, replaced the intake gasket, the EGR tube gasket and the cold start injector gasket. While off, I cleaned out all the carbon and gum from the TB and from the intake plenums. Still not fixed. Guess I'll order the fuel pressure gauge kit I saw at LCE for the cold start injector banjo fitting.