i have an 84 yota pickup, 22r 4x4

my brakes are a nightmare, so im just going to remove all the lines and start from scratch. so i would love to pick your brains. will just running brake lines from the master cylinder to the wheel give me braking? or do i HAVE to run them through all the random stuff, like the valves or the LSPV thing on the rear passenger side frame?
i obviously dont have abs so im not really worried about it and im not going to shoot for highway speeds. i just need something to work so i can drive. i deliver pizza.

any help will be VERY appreciated

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...16382994_n.jpg

 

Do you know how to make double flares??

Do you have a double flaring tool???

if you don`t use the lspv it will be interesting till you get used to driving it.

You think Highway speeds are more dangerous then delivering pizza ??

 

i can make flares for couplings. not sure about a double flare...

and if its explained i can still use the lspv, i just need clear instructions. and in this truck, the highway scares the crap out of me. my tires are old mudding tires. lol

 

What is the exact reasoning for wanting to replace ALL the lines?

It's not very common to replace hard lines other than corrosion and abrasion, in my experience.... And you might be able to order them from Toyota. Check your dealer...

You can also rent a single/double flare tool from any parts store that rents tools.

 

yea i know. i might just remove the flat bed and do it that way. there is just alot of mud caked underneith.

 

They make these really cool places for cleaning vehicles.... Called a car wash!

High pressure water will do wonders for mud... If its real bad, park the truck in the yard, put a sprinkler under it and turn the water on, and leave it alone for a while. Mud will soften and fall off...

 

Ya some of us sink our trucks in mud and don't have brake line problems. Its 99% chance its not the hard lines. Your wasting $$

 

YES!! I thought i was the only one..

 

no, it was a hard line that blew. and i cleaned all the mud up now im just waiting for the funds to get the supplies i need.

by the way, what is the line thats going to the bracket thats attached to my rear diff?

 

ok, new issue... i have bled all brakes at all the wheels, and i still have no brake pressure.

if i pump the brakes quickly, it will build up pressure. but if i let my foot off for more than a second, it goes back to soft and i can push it to the floor. i have to pump it 5-6 times to get enough pressure to stop from going 10 mph. and when the truck is off, i can pump it and it will build up resisitance. what could be the problem?

 

Air... Keep bleeding... Thats my opinion.

 

Are you still leaking fluid? Apart from air in the lines, which is the most likely option, the only thing i can think of is if your master cylinder is bad or your rear brakes are too loose. If they get worn down too far or are too far out of adjustment, you won't have much firmness in the pedal.

 

no fluid leaking. and the pedal will still build up pressure if i pump, so i thoguth when the master cylinder went badyou couldnt get pressure at all?

 

i would say check the rear of your master cylinder, if your seals are bad in there you wont have much pressure and it may leak fluid at the back. and try applying your parking brake over and over, this will automatically adjust the shoes in your drum outward, and you wont have front brakes until you build some pressure in the rear. so i would try the parking brake, if not you might be able to access the starwheel adjuster from a inspection hole in the backing plate.

 

Air, you got a lot of it in the lines. Check the firewall for brake fluid leaking out the back of the MC.

There is slot in the backing plate to adjust the rear brakes manually with a brake spoon.

 

If you have run it out of fluid, you may need to focus on bleeding the master cylinder. It may be easier to remove it, bench bleed it, then reinstall and bleed again. Then bleed the LSPV. Then bleed drivers rear, passenger rear, passenger front, then finally drivers front. In that order. You start bleeding with the corner that is the furthest from the master, by way of distance that the fluid travels. (through the lines...)

Do this, then do it again. And be sure to close the bleeder before the pedal gets pushed all the way to the floor.

 

Somtimes if the MC is leaking it leaks into the brake booster and starts filling it up. It can hold a lot of brake fluid.

 

I have a major issue with my brakes locking up in the front and have new booster new master cylinder new front calipers and new rubber lines in front brakes. what is the LSPV? and how do you bleed it. any suggestions would help a lot this has been very frustrating and i just bought it

 

90% of the braking is done with the fronts. The LSVP routes pressure back to the front brakes to prevent rear wheel lockup. I just strapped mine all the all the way up so I get maximum rear braking.

 

FYI i would consider a brake upgrade.

replace your rear cylinders, get SS lines front and rear.
Get rid of the LSPV (search how) and run a proportioning valve for the rear
upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster if your truck doesn't have one
upgrade to 1" master cylinder
v6 calipers and fj rotors up front

make sure you bench bleed the master
and then for initial bleeding you can just gravity bleed it. then use the pumping method or vacuum pump followed by pumping.
don't have any problems whatsoever on this setup with 35's.

As far as the guy with locking up the fronts first, you have to control your foot when at lower speeds to prevent that. if you do lock up, let off then re-apply.