Can a set of front/rear axles handle a 5vzfe or is it pushing the limits? I ask because I'm at the point where I will be purchasing gears and lockers for my truck and if it means I should get different axles and get lockers and gears to fit then then I will. Just looking for some input on this? I have a dual case setup with 35's. I appreciate any input provided. Thanks.

 

On the road, stock both, yes.
Wheeling it, stock rear, yes, stock front, not without upgrades.

:wabbit2:

 

what kind of upgrades are we looking at?

 

Chromoly axle shafts (30 splines)

:wabbit2:

 

anything else that should be in question?

at what point would dana's be a valid consideration?

 

I'm looking at lockers currently. I think it is between the ARB and Toyota E lockers. Will the toyota e lockers fit in both front and rear? I found them at marlin. I have been reading up on them and it will be my first time messing with the diffs and lockers. I will regear at the same time with 5.29's. Any input on lockers? I'm interested in a locker that will be virtually invisible when driving with it disengaged. I want a selectable locker as well, not automatic. I've read the detroits aren't as good as the just mentioned ones. Any input would help immensely while I keep researching/reading about them.

 

Elockers ruin your axle housing for anything else should you change in the future.

I prefer ARBs by far. It's on when it's on and off when it's off. No need for the motor that hangs down like on an elocker and they can be run with a simple power bottle.

:wabbit2:

 

V-6 thirds with the ARB's...might as well go with a high pinion up front

 

Well the motor kind of hangs up in the e-lockers. Just above the pinion in mine. Don't think it would get damaged. Got to admit I would replace it with an ARB if it ever failed. Price, reliability, and install of coarse. But Im happy with the e-locker since I got one. If you can find one, which you won't, go for it, otherwise ARB selectable is the way to go.

 

Thanks for the input. I'm going to be reading about them some more and I'll post up if I have more questions.

 

What is involved in going with v6 thirds?

Do I need the v6 diff housing?

I don't think I'll go high pinion, I've heard they aren't the strongest in reverse. So far my truck rides well in 4wd with the setup it has the the angle alleviation from one doesn't seem to by my selling point.

 

Dana's would be a consideration if you're going to REALLY wheel it.
If you want to go out and seriously rock crawl, the dana 60 is going to be the cheapest and best upgrade.
Not only that, but they're extremely easy to narrow up. And to have the axles cut and re-splined is pretty cheap, too.

 

As in "REALLY" wheel it, do you mean actually wheel it or wheel it HARD. Just curious.

 

If you're just going out every few weekends to play around at the local ORV park, or if you're going full on dedicated wheeler rig.

A lot of people don't realize this, but wheeling a rig is VERY hard on it, and you might have a very well built truck, but it's going to get beat up.

 

You also have to remember that Dana 60 and Toy axle shafts are very close to the same diameter... Cruiser axles are a smidge bigger on the shaft, but neck down at the splines. The only benefit a 60 has is (usually) full floating, and larger ring gear. Even the bearings in a V6 Toy diff are comparable to a 60.

After living in Utah for several years, I have seen many Heeps that broke shafts in 60s and 70s, not to mention 44s. And occassionally a Toy. Several Birfs, but that is a different animal. Still though, saw alot more D44 front u-joints...

 

research bobby longfield axles. if you are serious about changing the shafts for an upgrade in the front, there are other parts to consider for a warranty.

V6 thirds are just stronger plus have additional webbing and they are plug and play. buy the thirds, gear them and get locker of your choice installed at the same time. you can install them at your leisure and upgrade your axles later.

just don't get 4.88 thirds cuz they are weird and don't accept other gearsets.

 

The main advantage is the beefy u-joint, large R/P, kingpin setup, open knuckles, gigantic brakes 1/2in thick axle tubes, etc etc..

The only reason he'd want a D60 is because he wants full width stuff.
Not saying that toy axles arent beef, but to compare a toy axle to a dana 60 is ridiculous. The price to build up a Toy axle is ridiculous..

 

60s weigh at least 500 lbs and to get any ground clearance you need at least 44" tires if not larger.
Toy axle weighs in under 200 lbs and to get decent ground clearance 35s will work.

You can work on Toyota axles pretty easily. D60 stuff and you need a few friends of a cherry picker.

30 spline chromoly birfs and axle shafts are comparable to D60 stock stuff

For the weight to strength ratio, Toyota axles are great if you want a lightweight, durable good wheel base 4WD vehicle.
Rear stock Toyota axle will handle 38s easily.

Stick with Toyota axles Nick. No need for you to go full width stuff as everything will be going through your Toyota dual cases anyway and it will be fine.

I do agree that building a Toyota axle the price can get ridiculous, but if you are worried about cost, you picked the wrong hobby

:wabbit2:

 

D60s have 1/2" thick axle tubes now? Wow.

 

Couldn't agree more. Well put.