I am hoping to start putting the cylinder heads back in my 4runner tomorrow or friday. Any last minute tips or suggestion to make the install trouble free? I'm terrified I'm going to strip a head bolt in the process (either the bolt or the block). I've over come a stripped bolt during disassembly and stripped threads on a cam bearing cap and am just waiting for the other proverbial shoe to drop. Do I have to clean the threads with a tap? Because I have read horror stories where that has caused problems with creating loose threads (odd size thead). Do I oil the threads or would anti-seize be a good idea? I've read a number of threads on the here about cylinder head replacement but thought I'd ask for nuggets of wisdom to ease my mind.

Oh yeah, it's an '88 with a 3vze. I'm installing headers as part of the job.

Thanks!
Patrick

 

It is always a good idea to chase the threads with a tap prior to assembly. If you use the correct tap you won't have any problems. If you oil the head bolts it will change the torque value. Put the bolts in dry and torque properly per the FSM.

All bolts and studs have specific torque values. When an installer decides that he/she knows better and over torques or under torques critical fasteners such as head bolts/studs, rod bolts/studs, or main cap bolts/studs, then things go south quickly.

Follow the FSM and yoyu'll be fine.

 

That's funny. Because the FSM states to apply engine oil to the head bolts before installing them.
Not only that, but in general the use of lubricants on the threads of fasteners while installing them allows for the torque measurements to be more accurate. That's common knowledge in the mechanical world. Thus Toyota DOES recommend that lubricants be used when installing ANY fastener, whether or not there's a specific torque value(or a general torque value). They would prefer for you to use high-temperature lithium based grease on all of them, where no other lubricant or sealant is specified(also in the FSM, look it up yourself).


http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

 

MudHippy is 100% correct. NEVER install head bolts without some sort of lubricant. You're going to to get incorrect torque if you put them in dry. FYI, you shouldn't reuse the old head bolts; they stretch when torqued. Now they may still be "good" and still work, but for good measure new bolts should be used. You don't want to have to tear the head off again due to fastener failure. Goodluck.

 

Well, I've reused mine 3 times now without any issues. And that's perfectly acceptable according to Toyota.



Of note: These are not TTY(Torque To Yield) head bolts, they are TTT(Torque Turn to Tighten).

 

perfect info, my head gaskets just went out and have to be replaced, so this was just the info i was looking for...

 

My bad.. misinformation on the head bolts. I apologize.

 

I rented a torque-wrench for Honda HG fix many years ago (known for being touchy), 30 lbs didn't feel right so I put wrench in vise and pulled on it with a spring scale. It took over 70 lbs for it to click.
Just something to watch out for, common sense comes first.

BTW auto makers use a dry-torque and wet-torque (I worked at transmission factory a few years). Anything internal would be a wet-torque. Dry-torque would be for manifolds and any other exterior torques etc...the figures are mostly similar until you get into aluminum threads. The factory I worked for didn't care if the bolts were wet or dry when going in.

 

If its in the budget I would use the ARP head stud kit. They help prevent them from blowing again.

 

Well I just spent 2 hours driving around looking for a tap to clean the threads with with no luck (as others have experienced). I'm gonna use a straight wire brush and compressed air to clean the threads. Also, I didn't know it would be so hard to find longer exhaust studs (to reach non-stripped threads). I have new bolts and am installing headers so no more crossover :-)

 

scribed

 

where did you get your headers from?
I have my 3vze heads off and I was looking to do the same.

 

I bought my headers used from a classified website in California. Paid $210 and $85 of that was shipping :-). I believe they are northwest off road brand.

 

studs you can get from LC Engineering.

 

Geez. How many extra sets of head bolts have been sold? Bought mine last year from LCE (and still not installed!).

Off topic, but have any of you had success with the ColtCams folks up in Canada (eh!)? Maybe that's why I've had probs with my bmw; waiting for REAL heads for the runner. LOL. "The Lord works in mysterious ways". Whatever.

 

my dad keeps telling me i need to go in after 500 miles and retorque the head bolts is this true or not, im getting ready to put my heads on and i want to make sure in 10,000 miles im not redoing them again. (got cheap head gaskets off ebay last time) this time i got toyota factory ones,

 

The 3vz and 5vz head install in the FSM says nothing about re-torquing after xx miles. Follow the torque sequence in the FSM and you are good to go. White fingernail polish works great for the painted mark on the head bolts.

 

The problem is I have one hole in the head that is stripped but there are good threads further in. The OE studs are not long enough. I didn't think it would be so hard to find longer 10x1.25 studs without having to order them.

And thanks for all the advice on this. I think I am going to forego the headers for now. I may have said it before, but I'm not trying to build anything custom, just repair a tired engine and prolong the trucks life. I'll look at installing the headers later (maybe after checking that the frame is straight).

Thanks again!
Patrick

 

I just looked at their site and I may have to take a closer look at ordering them. They may have the extra length I need. Thanks.

 

thankx to everyone who donates info to the forum it really helps when you have a fast reliable source to go to that wont steer you wrong