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4Runner 94' Weak Transmission?

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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 03:08 AM
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4Runner 94' Weak Transmission?

So, I purchased a 94' 4Runner 4x4 for around $800. The paint is dull but it runs. I do have this one issue though, the Automatic transmission seems to struggle. Reverse works fine but when I put it on D I have to accelerate it greatly before it starts moving and then it finally gets to a normal speed. Any ideas what it could be?

I seek your help.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 03:28 AM
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When it moves in forward, do all the gears seem slow or just one? Do you have a high engine RPM while it is slowly accelerating indicating a slipping condition? I assume you have already checked the fluid level.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 06:44 AM
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The gears are fine from what I can see, the RPM is a bit high to get it to move. Around 2.5 to 3.5 to get it to move. Reverse however is smooth, no issues.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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Thinking of dumping all the transmission oil and changing the filter but it. I already gave it a oil change and changed the oil filter. It has a bad valve from what I can tell, you can hear that cluck on the right head.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 07:15 AM
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I would say don't waste your time changing the fluid. It would just go out faster anyway. I don't think it has much life left on it if it is slipping that bad. You have made sure the fluid level is good? Do it with engine running. Smell the fluid on the dipstick when you check it... if it smells burnt... well it is lol. I'd be ready to put a new one in if thats the case. If the fluid is just low you might be able to add some and it could fix it.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 07:26 AM
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You're not going to hurt anything if you flush and fill the transmission, provided you use the correct transmission fluid.

You may have an issue with the torque converter not operating properly.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 10:42 AM
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Just understand that the stall speed of your A340H is 2800RPMs. Since it is taking a bit longer to get rolling it could be that your shift solenoids need to be replaced. You can drop your pan and see if you have any excessive metal shavings in the pan. While you have it off run some current to the solenoids and check them.

I'm with abecedarian on this one, Draining and refilling with new fluid will not hurt your transmission like Leviticus thinks. I understand that some think you'll blow your tranny if you have it flushed by a machine cause it can possibility block your valve bodies. But draining and refilling will not hurt your transmission and I am of the opinion that why wouldn't you drain old worn-out fluid and add new fluid, would you not change your oil because it went bad and you didn't know when it was last changed ?

Last edited by McKenna; Jan 15, 2012 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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I checked the transmission fluid and it looks like it has more than enough, it does not smell burnt.

Last edited by 4Toyota; Jan 15, 2012 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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These transmissions have a "built in" transfer case. It's farely common for the transfer case to go it. Try putting it in 4 lo and see if it acts the same.
s
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 12:36 PM
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I think you might have a bad No. 1 solenoid valve. This would cause you to only have 3rd gear and Overdrive.

You can verify this by doing a manual shifting test... Pull the electrical connector from the rear drivers side of the tranny. It is just above the rear corner of the pan. Shift the vehicle into L and drive by shifting manually with the selector. The following shifter positions will give you the following gears.

L=1st
2=3rd
D=O/D

If your truck will shift manually as above, change your No.1 solenoid.
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Old Jan 15, 2012 | 02:30 PM
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Well, it turns out it's just on first gear. I have to accelerate a lot, once it's going it runs smooth and fine. So 1st gear is the issue, I reviewed the oil some more and it looks like it has never been changed.

"the pics are big so I did not embed them"
https://i.imgur.com/xEL6T.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qZ0gK.jpg

Now, on the other issue with the clucking, here is a video. They have been telling me it's a valve that might be causing it but I'm having doubts. :/

http://youtu.be/Dc13n617zbg
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:28 AM
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Speeed bump.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Alright so a quick update, I unscrewed all the bolts off the oil pan but now I can't take it off due to all the limited room. ANy ideas on how I can remove it without taking the motor out or anything major? Also, I sticked my hand in the pan and felt no metal shavings, hopefully I won't see those when I remove it.

Oil was black as heck though, never changed.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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BUMp.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 02:06 PM
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Oil pan? You mean the engine oil pan?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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The transmission oil pan under the transmission.
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 05:27 AM
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The front drive shaft usually has to be unbolted from the front axle and swung out of the way. Also unbolt the sway bar bushings from the frame and let the sway bar hang loose. Is this what your pan is hitting?
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 04:24 PM
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Actually you shouldn't need to touch the drive shaft at all. When I replaced my solenoids and filter all I had to do was unbolt the swaybar out of the way. Here is a great YT write up which should help you out.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...riteup-208821/

Last edited by McKenna; Jan 19, 2012 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 04:46 AM
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I removed the transmission oil pan and no metal shavings were found.
However the transmission still takes about 2.2 - 2.3 RPM before it starts moving to first gear. Any ideas? The new transmission oil change did improve it though a bit.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 09:23 AM
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The problem is flex-plate brokem. Sorry my inglish.
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