I have a 92 pickup with the 22re in it. The question in as stated in the title... Do these trucks have an emergency fuel cut off switch and if so... where are they? I was pulling out of a field tonight and hit the pavement a little harder than I expected and my truck cut out instantly. I know its a fuel issue because I can spray starter fluid in the throttle body and it will run for half a second.

 

I'm 99% sure the answer is "no."

Try jumping FP to B+ in the diagnostic connector. First, did you hear the fuel pump come on? Then, will it start and run? If so, something is wrong in the COR (Circuit Opening Relay) circuit, driven by the VAFM (Volume Air Flow Meter). That's the "emergency cutoff," when the VAFM says the engine isn't pulling air, the fuel pump shuts off. (The COR is initially driven by the Starting signal; since you can't get it to fire by cranking, my guess is you will NOT hear the fuel pump when you jump at the connector.)

Good luck!

 

I'm 100% sure it's "no". The fuel pump is controlled by the Circuit Opening Relay.

The COR is controlled by:
1) the ignition switch- turns the COR on when "cranking" to start then engine
2) the Air Flow Meter- keeps the COR on when the engine is running.

 

And... if you have the intake tube (between the throttle body and the air filter) disconnected to spray starting fluid in, for instance, the engine won't run more than a few seconds at all since the AFM (like I mentioned) keeps the fuel pump on. Tube disconnected means no air through the AFM thus engine won't run.

 

It's still a fuel issue though. It was running fine until I hit the bump going back onto the pavement then it just instantly died and won't restart. It cranks fine, like normal. Just not getting fuel.

 

Okay....
Put a jumper between the B+ and FP terminals in the diagnostic check connector.

Try to start the engine.

Let me know what happens.

 

Diag check connector. That's the like grey box next to the fuse box under the hood correct? It says diagnostics on it

 

yup.

On the underside of the the lid, there's a diagram showing what the terminals in the connector are.

 

Okay cool. I'll do that when I get home. Thanks for the help

 

Well, you're welcome.

But I haven't really helped until the problem's fixed.

 

Did what you said... Still nothing. So that rules out the fuel pump relay

 

Well, it doesn't rule it out, it just means that you have at least another problem.

"Still nothing" as in: you didn't hear the fuel pump? Most likely you have a dead pump. But before you take the tank apart, trace the wiring back to the tank. Use a voltmeter; with FP jumped you should be able to find 12v all the way back to the top of the tank, where the fuel pump has failed "open."

Don't have a voltmeter? No excuse for that: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html

Your "hard bump" could have broken part of the fuel pump wiring. Don't guess; work systematically from where you know you have voltage on the pump circuit (at the diagnostic connector) back to the pump.

 

I have a volt meter at work. I'm gonna get a trailer and take it to work so I dont have to stand outside and freeze my balls off.

 

I agree with scope103. Inserting the jumper "should" have put voltage to the fuel pump, bypassing the COR and activating the fuel pump.

Out of curiousity, you have checked all of your fuses, right? Both under the dash and under the hood?

Does it even attempt to start when cranking it, but just won't keep running?

 

Has been covered here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...switch-152370/

And here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...ut-off-234529/

And here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...i-rigs-179168/

And here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...switch-110231/

 

I haven't checked the fuses inside. I didnt even think of it to be honest. I checked the ones under the hood though. I'll go take a look see at the ones under the dash. It cranks like normal, it turns over. But wont actually start.

 

No blown fuses.

 

I guess next thing to check is there actually is battery voltage on the B+ terminal in the check connector with the key on. If there is, then check continuity back to the fuel pump positive terminal through the FP connection.

You "could" try jumping from the physical battery + to the BP terminal in the check connector and see how it goes, as well as from physical battery + terminal to the FP terminal in the check connector.

 

If either of those battery + jumpers fix the problem, it could be an issue with your ignition switch.

 

I'm getting a trailer tonight and taking it to work tomorrow so I'll try a few different things and see where I end up