Getting ready to replace the clutch in a 9/3 p/u. Everything is stock. Been sitting nearly a year since it wore out ;-).

Any tips/suggestions to make this go smoother?
I wonder most about lowering/raising the tranny. I assume it has to come all the way down to have enough room to get in there?

 

I've heard of smaller guys changing the clutch simply by disconnecting both driveshafts and sliding the tranny/tcase all the way back... but no way I could have done that. I removed my driveshafts, used a tranny jack to remove the transmission, transfercase, and crossmember all as one unit.

If you have 4x4, I don't find you need to jack the truck up. Also, if you have the 3vze... get a bunch of extensions for your ratchet and you will NOT have a problem getting the starter bolts out. Just take off the skidplate for access.

I also recommend that you pay the extra money and replace all the components in the bellhousing. Friction disk, pressure plate, release bearing, and pilot bearing. No sense cheaping out on parts either: genuine toyota parts are great, or Marlin Crawler sells some EXCELLENT kits.

One last thing... PLEASE don't use bolts/straps/comealongs whatever to pull the bell housing back towards the block. If the input shaft and pilot bearing are properly aligned... a decent push will be fine to get them to mate. If not, you're not lined up.

Good luck!

PS On the 3vze, your rear main crankshaft seal might be leaking oil... it's easy to replace when the tranny is down if it is. Have a looksee while you're in there.

 

The hardest part is the Transmission /transfer case wants to twist sideways.
Look real close at the flywheel at the least have it turned or replace


It is much easier to have help I have done 2 of these by myself and would not wish that on anyone.

Get the longest extensions you can the more joints you have the more twist(slack) before you apply torque to the bolt

Good to have at least two floor jacks to raise and lower things keep the floor clean so that jack rolls easy.

Might be a good time to check out the transmission mount while your right there.

Me I always manage to drop and lose bolts so I have new ones on hand.

 

I recently did the clutch in my 88 4Runner (22re). Everything came apart rather smoothly. If you have a proper transmission jack with an adjustable "table", it's cake.

If the flywheel bolts won't come loose, a MAPP torch to the heads of the bolts helps loosen the thread locking compound for you.

Make sure you replace the pilot bearing and use a pilot tool to reinstall the clutch disc. The pressure plate has 6 bolts attaching it to the flywheel. Initially install the pressure plate with 3 bolts, doing so in stages where you center the clutch disc with the pilot tool, tighten the 3 bolts a little, re-center the clutch disc, tighten the 3 bolts a little more, etc. until all 3 bolts are "tight", then... install the other 3 bolts with thread locking compound, remove the first three bolts and reinstall those with locking compound.

Using thread locking compound is recommended on all the bolts: flywheel to crank and pressure plate to flywheel.

Disconnect the battery.
Pull the shift levers out before dropping it.
Disconnect the front and rear drive shafts. If you can remove the front drive shaft (if 4wd) from the transmission AND transfer case before hand, the transmission is easier to manipulate.
Support the rear of the engine as best you can: don't let the engine move any more than necessary.

What else?

 

If you smoked a clutch ,you hopefully are creaping into 200k range. Definitely time for front and rear seals.
Sorry, but can't help on your mission, as my local Yota specialty shop charges $200 for this procedure and takes them 3-5 hrs.

It would take me MUCH longer to do, buy more/different tools, rent tranny jack, and clean the garage floor etc...

I would also be flying solo the whole way, so I figure weighing the risk of dropping tranny on my head vs. paying $200. Don't get me wrong ...if the local guys were not available, I would do it myself as I have done a few in the past.

Just something I learned from my brief Volvo ownership.

BTW , I still crawl underneath to check everything and always insist on my old parts.

 

Replace the Rear Main seal with an OEM. Do not use the aftermarket one from the auto parts store, or you will be replacing it soon! Use Royal Purple gear oil to replace the old trans oil.