Oh wise ones of yotatech

Im doing a diff swap on the front of my yota from 4.56 to 4.88 gears.

The new diff came with the vacuum actuator to lock the hub. I have a manual hub truck and I was planning on just swapping the sleeve from my old diff to the new one, easy day right? After taking them apart I see they are very different from each other.

All my searches have turned up hub swaps and nothing on swapping the sleeve/arm.

Tell me what you guys think.

 

bumpity

 

are the diff size the same? if so pull the diffs and swap housings, u will need to reset everything but might be the only way i can see, or just put the sleeve over and lock it and put the actuator back on.

 

Dont swap housings, they are practically identical.

I was up against the same thing and due to lack of info at the time and needing the truck to get me to work the next day, I put the slide collar shaft on, locked the collar in place and havent had any problems with it since. The down side of this is one more problem area, the upside is it holds more fluid.

Now, you can put the non add shaft in the 4.88 diff. The part that that goes from the slide collar into the diff needs to come out, and I believe you need a different oil seal. Then they should bolt right up. Some one will chime in and have some more insight on this.

Good luck

 

so i found this write up here.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f129...er-mod-200971/

but what's messes up is that he locks that ring in the open position with that hose clamp. When i move the actuator to the position he's moving it to the hubs dont rotate at all when you spin the drive flange. when you move the ring to the geared teeth opposite of what he's saying they rotate when you spin the drive flange indicating its in the locked position and will spin the wheels for 4wd.

So i think im going to leave it the way i did it and instead of using the hose clamp to hold it in place i used the gasket maker and shoved some into the vacuum hoses on the actuator. this will keep the fork from moving once it dries.

 

Scared me the first time I did it too. There's a shaft (I don't know what it's call) in the diff still that was connected to the ADD shaft. Just open the diff plate and use a chizzle to push it out from the carrier. Might want to replace the seal as stated above. Then throw on some rtv, slide and bolt the non ADD shaft on. Hope it makes sense.

 

You will see what I meant when pulling out the shaft. You can also do what zuk did here with two screw driver.

http://www.gearinstalls.com/rickdiaz.htm

 

^^ yes. Thats what I was saying above, to pull this piece out then the non ADD one will slide right in. (but might need a new oil seal)



Thats how I did my slide collar. Works mint,

 

Okkayy so here's the deal

When I spin my drive shaft flange I'm assuming the hubs should spin indicating its in 4wd. Then I should just lock my hubs and be good correct?

When I move that ring gear to the left away from the teeth like he did in the write up my hubs don't spin when i turn the drive shaft flange. If they aren't turning there's no 4wd.

When i set it to the opposite of what hes talking about and I set the ring over the teeth on the shaft and spin the drive shaft flange both hubs turn telling me the 4wd is engaged. So this guy is telling me to set it one way but I really think the hubs should turn when you spin the drive shaft. So which way is right????? :confused:

 

the main thing is that the housing looks like this picutre. the a.d.d. engager should be slid over the gears for your axle shaft. then lock the actuator how ever you need to. as far as the spining of the drive shaft flange. when you spin the drive flange the ring gear turns and based on tensione in the axle flanges the axles turn (one or both). the add does not lock the diff it only cause the axle to operate by not sending all the power to the unlocked wheel.

 

Do you have your housing sitting in the same position ??

Are you looking at it from above or below??

From the front or the back?

It can get a little confusing at times .

If your axle engages and the flanges turn I would think you have it correct even if your left and right is different.

on vehicles the left is always the drivers side even when hanging head first over the radiator support

 

Agree.

 

^^ well stated

 

Please update I have a very similar problem and want to know how it goes. I put a rear 3rd in my 87 4runner out of a 90something taco, I love the extra spunk the 4.56 gears gave me but now I have to do something about the front diff. Driving around colorado without 4x4 sucks.

 

Taco's came in 4:56? But anyways you can come across 4:56 diffs rather easily in the junk yard. But then again Colorado might be different than California.

 

02 and up 2.7 Tacomas did. If they had the auto and 265's.

But, only the TRD e locker would be remotely compatible with the 86-95 8" axle. And they didn't come in 4.56. Only 4.10 and 4.30.
So I have no idea what the guy you quoted is talking about.

 

 

so update on this is a locked the fork in place by filling the vacuum tubes with RTV gasket sealant. The fork will not move if it cannot move air through these small pipes. This beats wedging something in there to keep it from moving. The actuator is now locked in place over the ring gear and when you sping the drive shaft flange the hubs also turn. I installed the diff back on my truck and took it for a spin. I locked my manual hubs, shifted to 4H and voila! 4WD baby!! My old DIFF with 4.56 gears is now for sale if anyone is interested. click on my SN and look for started threads.

 

Congratulation!!!!!! Welcome to the 4:88 club

 

In this thread are the diffs in question out of a 1st gen Tacoma or an earlier truck? I am wanting to throw in a lower geared A.D.D. front diff into my manual hub diff truck. Thanks.