The high idle plague!!! At first it wasnt to bad, manageable, sometimes non existent problem. It seems to be getting worse the more I try to fix it!

I have no figures on what the idle is exactly, no tach

At first the idle was a little high but not too terribly bad, it would fuel cut with the brakes on, idle steady without. Since I need to smog it I HAVE to fix this issue!

So heres what I did:
*New: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change just to be safe.
*I have checked ALL of the vacuum lines 20x now, checked the brake booster for leaks, nothing everything is great! Spraying Carb clean everywhere there could be a leak yielded no results
*Removed the throttle body, completely disassembled it and cleaned it thoroughly as well as cleaning the intake out best as possible.
*Made sure the idle was adjusted all the way down, with both the air screw and the stop, both were already this way. O ring was good on the adjuster screw.

After getting all of that done and taking her on a 200mile or so cruise yesterday, there was no improvement from any of this. Once on the drive at a light it idles PERFECT for about 30 seconds.....then the light turned green!

After that at every light is seemed to pick a different idle speed, sometimes higher(to the point where its fuel cutting without the brakes applied) and sometimes lower, but never low enough to not fuel cut with the brakes applied.

Make sense? and idears???

 

Does your 91 have an IACV? Just under the throttle body portion bolted directly to the intake, below the CTS and CSI-Time Switch(I think 91's are a lil different in the idle up portion...but if yours has stuck open, then it would mean it's continuing to flood the intake with what the AFM would consider "unmetered air"....

I've heard of other issues like Failing/Improperly adjusted TPS, as well. But, more often, the Coolant Temp Sensor in some later model 22re's and most 3.0's can cause idle issues from hell.

We're talking 22re here, right? Sorry if I missed that... just asking.

PS> There are instances where the linkage/cable can get all gunked up in there and stick. Have you tried manually turning the throttle linkage backward to see if it cuts back on the idle?

 

There's some play in the linkage, its deffinately not holding it open.

Sorry its a 92. 22re yes. And it does not have the IACV.

The temp guage works perfect. Is there a separate sensor for the computer?

Thanks for all your help

 

fixed your thread title. just a heads up by the rules your thread could have been deleted 'I've got the plague' doesn't sound like a tech related truck issue...

 

I can't remember how the later model 22RE's pull in idle up air.... Or if it even works that way. Someone will chime in... And it's very possible that's the issue. Couldn't find it in the book? FSM?

 

dropzone, sorry i get a little crazy sometimes!

chef: the iac is on the underside of the tb where the coolant flows through, ive already cleaned it so it looks like new!

at $175 i need to be sure its the problem!

 

Ah hahhhhhhh, .... so you do have an IACV or AAV(Idle Air Control Valve or Auxiliary Air Valve)....

You can clean them all day,... but they can still be, well, just bad, lol. HOWEVER, they usually WONT open when they go bad(due to bad spring, etc.), which causes them to not idle up.

Could be the TPS or throttle plate pivot arm in the throttle body that's problem prone.

Coolant Temp Sensor often causes issues as well... but I can't remember if it's a high idle or not.

Did you check the timing?

 

i havent check the timing, i need to get a timing light, hopefully soon.

all last week if i let it run and warm up about 20-30 minutes it would idle down and be perfect, which is really confusing me.

this week it wont do that though

 

not enough info to help but your last statement opens up a new though. thermostate stuck open? motor needs to be operating temp and a stuck open thermostate would lower temp enough to cause problems. Oh and coolant level too. very low coolant level will splash water on sensors and change there value instead of submerging the sensor.

 

^^^^beat me to it.

do you have a thermostat in. If not, put one in. if you do....replace it with a dual diaphragm one from TOYOTA. see 4crawlers explanation and for the part# http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tatReplacement definitely without the t-stat the idle will be all over the place (ask me how i know) and if it's a AUTO, the shifting will be crap (ask me how i know).

just did the t-stat on the 88 4runer 3vze we just rebuilt....idle was all over the map...no rhyme or reason.....no heat too. similar story on my 22re when i ran it without one.

 

yeah blows hot, very hot! and it gets up to operating temp in good time. not 100% but it appears to have a good tstat. ill check on my day off and make sure theres one in there. and in my previous post, it quit doing that last week :/

im also going to test the tstat and maybe clean the afm tuesday

 

Quit doing WHAT? lol.... Are you saying it quit giving you problems after warm up?

 

PS> Be careful when cleaning the AFM... Are you using AFM cleaner?(not that it's necessary, so much, to use that.... but it tells you on the bottle that you should NEVER get the cone with solvents, as I remember.) Just sayin... hahaha.

 

Thanks for the tip chef, ive gotten pretty good about cleaning em, after all i do own a camaro

so played with the timing a little by ear today, retarded it a bit and got the idle to go down some, so later this week, if not tomorrow ill be getting a timing light and doing that.

the idle is still somewhat irradic and there is a little paint mark on the tps which makes me suspect its out of adjustment, so i will also me checking the resistance, voltages and adjustment of that also.

hopefully this is it so i can smog this thing and get my shiny new plates


today i also put some thicker wire where the 12ga was spliced into the main fuse bow power wire, what a joke! ill be ordering the good stuff to do the big 3 and ALL grounds here soon! pics coming or the wire repair tomorrow!

 

I am having the exact same problem with my 92' 22re. High idle and when I hit the brakes the idle jumps up and down. How do the brakes have anything to do with this?? I'm lost..

 

The brakes have EVERYTHING to do with the "up and down" fluctuation, Drillin_Guy....

When you hit the brakes with the RPM's above 1000...... Fuel Cut System engages with the injectors(intermittently/off and on), which is really done to aid in 'slowing down' at a light/saving the brakes, etc. (Because, if you are at a high idle when hitting the brakes, it's harder to stop, right? So it's a safety thing, mostly, efficiency thing, secondly.)

WHY your idle is high is another thing all together. Read though everything people have posted, you'll find it

 

gotcha, thank you Sir!!!

 

Ok figured i would update!

Today I checked the t-stat, its there and good! but i did break a bolt off the housing had to drill and retap that but its all good now too!

I also have gained access to ALLDATA, so as soon as i find some feeler guages I will be checking the TPS and ill be reporting back.

Hopefully this is over soon!

 

Best wishes, dude! Sorry bout the re-tap, etc., but hey, .....at least we can DIY, right? lol.

 

I was having this same problem a few months ago in my 95 with a 22re. It ended up being the IAC valve. Kinda a pain to get at but it was easy to clean out and now it idles fine.