ok had truck a little over 2 years with code 14 coming up intermitently, like after i run through a big puddle and kill it. simple answer: dont get wet. truck is '92 22re ext. cab 4x4 mt

now imagine it doing it dry like in the bottom of a river bed on a sunday night leaving you to be yanked out by someone who fails to accurately comunicate. . . . .off topic

ok so the truck will start, run anywhere from .5 seconds to a couple minutes before shutdown. no igf to ecu 6-8 times in succession. traced all wires from igniter plug to (5 wires) their destinations (three to comp., one to fuel injectors, one to the diagnosis port's little rubber-capped friend that says IG-. ALL HAVE CONTINUITY. comp. is dry and has been. its board is CLEAN and free of any obvious signs of damage. same with ignitor. new coil on the way because primary resistance was .7ohms versus the .64 max as seen in my manual. plus i love any excuse to replace a 20 year old part even if i am almost sure it is not the problem. tried an older ignitor (had to jimmy-rig conn. to pickup coil at dist.) and saw NO CHANGE. and i will mention new plugs wires cap rotor even the tps (that was a problem though)

and for those that dont know but are bright and would like to make a suggestion, no igf, as i understand, is no confirmation of ignition going back to the computer, the fact that it does start and did pass the old crank er over while i hold the coil wire to ground and watch sparks test says it is firing. without the igf signal, the computer doesn't believe the truck is firing and shuts injectors to prevent more trouble.

anything better than "maybe a dinosaur took your truck for a drive and broke it" is GREATLY APPRECIATED

 

(with smokey the bear face "only YOU can make this post interesting"

 

after tps replacement the truck ran great for a couple days till . . . . yea, stranded in a river-bed. crank-start-die. crank-start-run-throttle up-oh shoot not again-die

 

hello

 

Sounds like the igniter is having a problem. But there's no way to confirm that without a scope to see if the signal is there or not.

 

scope. . . . . .advanced electrical diagnostics is still in spanish to me for the time being. .. .. .. .i have access to a snap-on ethos computer, just need to buy the toyota adaptor. . . . . . ..would that help? the guy who has it is the type to want a code reader and looks for the most expensive one and buy a freakin computer, unfortunately neither he nor i know its capabilities. my friend barrowed it from him for me, when asked about what it is and does, the guy replied, you guys are sharp, youll figure this thing out. big help

 

scope == oscilloscope

It allows you to see the actual signal.

 

i suppose you have to connect it inline with the wire somewhere? btw my new DENSO coil came in today. . . . she ran like a top for about six minutes. thats a new record. i started making phone calls and everything (my truck is kinda popular lol) and shortly after reaching operating temp, she died. im gunna let it cool again and start it. if now it runs fine till reaching temp, i have some more ancient efi logic to learn

 

forgive me. let me start on the other side of things . . . . what is the ABSOLUTE best way to verify that ignition IS happening. i need the truck running. maybe i do have a wacky missfire. . . . i guess either way im stuck buying an ecu or ignitor though. f-word

 

ok. so i was able to verify that ignition is proper. my timing light blinks until the motor stops turning, even after it has lost power and is on its way to dead. no igf signal but has ignition. . . . . . . ignitors for sale?

 

ok. truck mysteriously ran this afternoon after looking at 4 motor ground points. not perfect still minor hiccups, but driveable. split/inspected/re-insulated where loom from ignitor was touching valve cover and ran BETTER. less hiccups. not zero say 2 in 20 minutes. both under load. wtf.

ohmed all 5 wires at ignitor conn. (going toward computer) to ground and have resistance at all 5. should they not show open/infinite? completely insulated from ground?

 

solved i think. my loom containing the wires from ignitor was touching the valve cover, split loom, and noticed conductor at blk/red fuel inj. wire split/y/whatever you wanna call it. re-insulated, ran loom above the throttle cable, pcv hose, etc. and so far so good. thanks roadkill for the posts