I have a 1989 Toyota pickup. 4WD, 4cylinder 22re. I recently swapped the motor, it started up fine but then once it was warmed up it would run rough and idle funny. We determined that it was the cold start injector timing switch not shutting off when the truck was warm. We rigged it so that once the truck was warm we took the green and black wire of the cold start timing switch and twisted them together to shut off the cold start. The truck ran perfectly fine after that. The next morning I tried to start my truck and just continually cranked but wouldnt turn over. We did some research and messing around with things and found the only way to start the truck was to manually work the fuel pump by jumping the terminals (fp and b+) in the box under the hood while spraying starter fluid in the intake tube for about 10 seconds.. After doing this the truck starts up and runs perfect. Any ideas why it isnt starting up on it's own?

 

That's funky. I've found that the most common no start problem with the 22re is the AFM. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks and no holes in the tube between the AFM and throttle body. Also, i could have sworn that the cold start injector timer switch was closed with the engine cold. If that's the case, then by twisting the wires together, you've got the cold start injector always on. I COULD have that backwards, but i don't think so. If everything checks out, check the AFM flapper, the fuel pump won't turn on unless the AFM senses that the flapper is open.

 

[quote=Inferno451;51806082]That's funky. I've found that the most common no start problem with the 22re is the AFM. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks and no holes in the tube between the AFM and throttle body. Also, i could have sworn that the cold start injector timer switch was closed with the engine cold. If that's the case, then by twisting the wires together, you've got the cold start injector always on. I COULD have that backwards, but i don't think so. If everything checks out, check the AFM flapper, the fuel pump won't turn on unless the AFM senses that the flapper is open.[/quo

 

The CSITS should not have any voltage applied to it when you release the key to "run" position.
The FP terminal in the box under the hood should have voltage on it when cranking and after the engine starts, but no voltage on it when the key is only turned to "on" or "acc".

You've had a lot of "rewiring" done, eh? Back to basics.