Guys,

Time for a tire rotation. I have lifetime rotation but there's no way i'd go back to the shop where i bought it from. Those guys would probably stick a shish kebab in the tire or some crap like that.

Anyways, since i have 4 jackstands, my plan is to lift my 4runner up on 4 points on the frame. Then I'd rotate the tires. Since search is busted, I just want to make sure that:

1) tire rotation is always front to back
2) tighten the lugnuts by hand (reminder re brian's thread) and tighten down w/ torque wrench
3) no alignment is necessary

i'm sketchy on points #1 and #3. do you necessarily need a 4 wheel alignment after rotating your tires?

thanks,
bob

 

You're right on there Bob. Alignment is usually when you change angles or when you notice a pronounced pull. If anything it's not a bad idea (if you got a buddy at a tire place) to get em balanced once every year or so. Especially if one tire seems to be acting funny.

The only thing I can think you need to do is that one pair (fronts or backs) need to be switched from one side to the other (that's when they come forward or go backward). This would be because the front tires get more wear on the sides from all the turning.
Offtopic: sent you a pm

 

a few weeks ago there was a lengthy thread on whether to use a cross-pattern or just front to back; I think the consensus was front-to-back only because radials are not meant to turn opposite from their original direction

now as many times as I've read such wisdom, nobody has ever offered a reason why! what is it about the belt that makes it do funky things if it turns the other way?!?

 

Front to back rotation. Hand-tighten lugs with tire slightly touching the ground (to prevent it from turning), torque to spec after on the ground (full weight). Piece of cake!

 

The manual recommends front to back for radials. If you want to get the spare involved in the rotation, pick one side and rotate the spare with only those two to maintain rotation direction. I would also recommend only installing the lugs by hand. I start them by finger, and then use a 4-way lug wrench to spin them till all 5/6 (depending on your bolt pattern) are seated. I use a crossing pattern to make sure the wheel is sitting flush with hub.
Then I use a 'click' type torque wrench for final tightening. I also make sure the lug studs are clean and I use a small amount of never seize lubricant to keep the lug nuts from 'welding' to the studs. Been doing it this way for 25 years and never lost a wheel yet.

 

After my lift I took my rig into the dealership for an alignment, the guy told me I couldn't get a 4 wheel alignment because of the solid rear axle. So I guess we can only get 2's.

 

I asked about that last time too... the service guy told me that a 4 wheel alignment was just something they did

Bob:
I take my tires for the alignment back at Discount Tire where I got them but I'm out there with the guy watching his every movement like a hawk. I make sure he knows I'm out there to by making some kind of comment like, "Hey, I might have run over a nail on this tire" or something like that.

I've had my tires rotated 3 times now and no problems so far

 

There should be no adjustment needed ever for a rear solid axle. For that matter a front solid axle should never need alignment either unless you bend a tie-rod. There simply is nothing to go wrong with them.

 

I rotate mine in with the spare every 5K, like it shows in the 4Runner manual, so it goes like this:

Spare to left front to right rear to front rear to left rear to spare.

With adding in a full-size spare and rotating (5) tires over the life of the tires, I get very good life out of my tires. I am hoping my MT/Rs will follow suit and now that I have a new jack and some jack stands, I can do it myself. With my new compressor and air tools next week, I can do it even faster. No worries, I will still be hand tightening most of the way!

Happy rotating!

 

I am still using the forward cross pattern as I am under the impression that this is how you rotate 4WD vehicles tires.



I do the rotation my self to get the torque correct and avoid warping the rotors. Also I dont want my center caps scratched like they will inevitably do at a shop.

I do the rotation every 6k (once per year for me ).

 

for me, fronts go criss cross to the rears. rears got to front, no x-cross...

and yes, no alignment is needed unless something is wacky with the truck.

as for solid axle, you can use camber plates for the fronts, and that allows MINOR changes...