Not quite sure where to put this. As I haven't made up my mind to talk the "mother-in-law" into buying this or helping the guy fix it.



http://scranton.craigslist.org/cto/2378709105.html

lol, I went to take a look at this thing two days ago I drive by this truck nearly every day. It's like less then 2 blocks away, said, I'd get back to him. the "NO B***S please" wasn't in the ad till now.

Overall the body is in good shape. Some clear coat coming off the hood and fenders but not real bad. And no rust that I could see.

RUNS 100%, and only needs minor repair. yeah right ok whatever buddy.

3.4 BTW. The thing has a huge miss in it and the CEL is on. Recent work done is a timing belt, Cat (which now also has a huge exhaust leak probably before the cat), ignition wires, and spark plugs. Maybe a little more, but it cost the guy like $267 at a shop. Which I happen to know the person who runs it. He was a manager at a local Jiffy Lube when I was an assistant before they went under. I happened to get a few air filters off him for a buck a piece a while back. Shop it new hasn't even been there a year and it was a Valvoline oil change place that refereed him to the shop. By a manager at that place I used to work under when it was still a Jiffy Lube.

The guy bought it a while back from that idiot that stiffed me on my state safety inspection.

I take the thing on a test drive to autozone 2 blocks away after he says it still has power on the highway. Just to have AZ read the CEL. Guess what, AZ cannot read it. Scan tool says connection error. WTF???? ok. hmmm that's odd. But whatever. I will search around and see if there is a way to read the codes like the older ones. Couldn't find anything on it really.

Gave it about half throttle on the way back and nothing, no power. Good on highway? Nice try buddy. At partial throttle the thing just shakes the whole truck. "It wasn't doing that before" You expect me to believe that with an ad that says runs 100%. Ok. LMAO.

What I don't know is if this thing was doing this before or after all the work. My feeling is all this work was done because it was acting like this. ANd the guy realized he just threw $270 at a turck that still "100% runs" like crap and is now trying to stiff an unknowing person with it. Maybe the idiot shop that worked on it messed up the Timing belt job and/or used the wrong type of plug wires/plugs. I guess the 3.4 need dual ground plugs and a "special" set of wires?

Some other stuff wrong with it include tires bald (but just passed inspection). Yeah "just" being the key word here. And the passenger side front door doesn't open from the outside. But he does have the parts to fix it.

I just hope the guy has the common sense (I highly doubt it though) as not to run the engine into the ground and pop a rod through the block.

Thoughts?

vid of engine "100% "running"". Although a litle hard to hear the miss. Camera doesn't take really good vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I01IiVCx3B4

 

Well it looks ok...


/

 

If it has an exhaust leak before the cat, that could be the CEL and half the reason it is running bad, also could be like you said the T belt is off a tooth maybe, that would explain why it has no power. It looks nice, I would offer real low like $1500 and see if he will take it.

 

yeah but the AZ scanner not being able to read the ECU let alone the code really worries me. And the exhaust leak I can see throwing a cat efficiency CEL as long as it's after the first o2 sensor. The seconnd o2 shouldn't mess with the fuel trim, but I could be wrong. Now if that leak is before the first o2, then I would say yes that can cause a miss. But I don't know where the first o2 sensor is placed in relation to the cat/connection.

 

I bought one of those aftermarket scanners and it for some reason used to tell me all the time that it couldn't connect, I would have to unplug it, start the car and then plug it in to start reading. Now it just always says it cannot connect, POS only lasted me about 8 months.

 

hmmm that's good to know. I think I have an OBDII connector for a laptop, if I haven't thrown it out yet. Might give that a try if I can find the dang thing. lol.

 

I open the bidding at $400

 

if the tbelt was done... but they didnt' use a new bolt or properly torque the crank bolt It will mess with the timing. Also there is a seperate fuse for the power to the obd2 plug. Check that fuse.