How do you you compensate wear from big tires on sus and steering parts?
May 7, 2011 | 06:46 PM
#1
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From: Carson City
How do you you compensate wear from big tires on sus and steering parts?
I was thinking about it the other day, and realized the size tires I am running now are dramatically bigger than what the stock size was (28''? or whatever the metric equivalent is). I go between 33's and 35's (whatever I find on craigslist used). That has got to put tons more stress than what the vehicle is used to, especially getting beat up off road all the time.
So I've been kind of going over my 4runner lately. Just trying to get it pretty road worthy and ready for a 1200 mile move to New Mexico, so I definitely need to figure out what's causing my death wobble at 50-55mph. I have a Day Star poly full bushing kit, and I was going to replace the ball joints and whatever else I find wrong in my vehicle check over.
But what can you do to help handle the bigger tires? More heavy duty steering parts meant for offroading and such? I definitely don't want to go back to 31's with the lift I got, and would like to figure out how keep her a safe daily driver without retiring her to off road only.
Mods in my sig.
Thanks
So I've been kind of going over my 4runner lately. Just trying to get it pretty road worthy and ready for a 1200 mile move to New Mexico, so I definitely need to figure out what's causing my death wobble at 50-55mph. I have a Day Star poly full bushing kit, and I was going to replace the ball joints and whatever else I find wrong in my vehicle check over.
But what can you do to help handle the bigger tires? More heavy duty steering parts meant for offroading and such? I definitely don't want to go back to 31's with the lift I got, and would like to figure out how keep her a safe daily driver without retiring her to off road only.
Mods in my sig.
Thanks
May 7, 2011 | 07:39 PM
#2
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Peoria, AZ
The best thing you can do for big tires to offset the power loss and mpg is to regear the diffs to best match the OEM overall gear ratio. Do this and you don't have to smoke the clutch taking off from every stop light, etc. My 22RE with 4.10 gears and 31 x 10.5 BFG's was pretty much a dog. I ended up with 33's and 4.88 gears and the overall gearing is almost back to stock and very streetable.
If you stay stock, the CV's are probably the most vulnerable to wear and tear and even breaking if you are careless with the extra rotating mass.
If you stay stock, the CV's are probably the most vulnerable to wear and tear and even breaking if you are careless with the extra rotating mass.
May 7, 2011 | 07:44 PM
#3
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Peoria, AZ
The best thing you can do for big tires to offset the power loss and mpg is to regear the diffs to best match the OEM overall gear ratio. Do this and you don't have to smoke the clutch taking off from every stop light, etc. My 22RE with 4.10 gears and 31 x 10.5 BFG's was pretty much a dog. I ended up with 33's and 4.88 gears and the overall gearing is almost back to stock and very streetable.
If you stay stock, the CV's are probably the most vulnerable to wear and tear and even breaking if you are careless with the extra rotating mass.
Truly, it is a pandora's box that is opened by going nutty (35"+) on tire size because the suspension and driveline parts probably *should* be upgraded as well. I'm curious to see how long my setup lasts, but I'm pretty easy on my rig off-road.
If you stay stock, the CV's are probably the most vulnerable to wear and tear and even breaking if you are careless with the extra rotating mass.
Truly, it is a pandora's box that is opened by going nutty (35"+) on tire size because the suspension and driveline parts probably *should* be upgraded as well. I'm curious to see how long my setup lasts, but I'm pretty easy on my rig off-road.
May 7, 2011 | 11:36 PM
#4
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon.
I personally wonder this too. The rig I bought used was already on 33 x 12.50's and dealer I picked it up from said he had no idea what mods were used lol. I haven't had and issues with my gearing so I think it may not have stock gears I have no clue lol. Whatever it works fine. Maybe the death wobble is an unbalanced tire or wheel. I had to use Fix A Flat on my driver side front wheel and it developed a wobble at speeds like 55+.
Hope you figure it out so you have a safe trip to your new home =)
Hope you figure it out so you have a safe trip to your new home =)
May 8, 2011 | 04:34 AM
#5
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,887
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From: Spokane, WA
Well, step one is to get the tires PROPERLY BALANCED. This is generally the cause of all death wobble.
Next, id inspect wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arm bushings.
You said you changed the bushings to poly bushings so that's probably fine.
Next, id inspect wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arm bushings.
You said you changed the bushings to poly bushings so that's probably fine.
May 8, 2011 | 05:09 AM
#6
I used a set of Centramatic wheel balancers:
along with well maintained parts like mentioned above.
The surefire cure is to run a set of 225/75/15's like it came stock with...but that cure sucks
edit:
those should be upgraded too...but most importantly IMO is Brakes
So I got a set of Centramatic Wheel Balancers for Christmas:
As far as I know, 4Crawler, is the only member that is using these (link to his review).
How They work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ullnFQD4F1I
I am running 35x13.50x15 Toyo Open Country MT's (which suck
) with tons of Rock rash etc. This is on my 1981 Trekker (1st gen SA)
They were able to balance these things with all the weight on one side:
No Death Wobble!!
So issues I ran into with these:
Up front I am running V6 Calipers and LC vented Rotors, the Centramatic would not clear the caliper, not sure if this would have been the case if I had the stock brakes up front.
Solution-mount a set of Wheel spacers(i went 1.5", probably could have gotten by with 1" or 1.25")
there was no issues with clearance in the back:
PROS:
-they balance out wheel/tire combos that are totally out of balance and make it drive very nice
-easy installation in most cases
-saves money over long run if you throw weights all the time like I do (Les Schwab is about $50 to balance a set of tires)
-longer tire life(truckers report 200K out of a set of tires)
-Many applications available (see link above)
CONS:
-Cost: about $200 a set
-Would not clear my front caliper with out wheel spacers
-when you stop, they kind of have to start over again as the internal weights inside settle to the bottom of the ring. It works as you pick up speed.
Overall I very happy with them. They balanced out my big tires that had a ton of weight on them. I will probably knock the external lead weights off them (gonna fall off anyway).
As far as I know, 4Crawler, is the only member that is using these (link to his review).
How They work:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ullnFQD4F1I
I am running 35x13.50x15 Toyo Open Country MT's (which suck
) with tons of Rock rash etc. This is on my 1981 Trekker (1st gen SA)They were able to balance these things with all the weight on one side:
No Death Wobble!!
So issues I ran into with these:
Up front I am running V6 Calipers and LC vented Rotors, the Centramatic would not clear the caliper, not sure if this would have been the case if I had the stock brakes up front.
Solution-mount a set of Wheel spacers(i went 1.5", probably could have gotten by with 1" or 1.25")
there was no issues with clearance in the back:
PROS:
-they balance out wheel/tire combos that are totally out of balance and make it drive very nice
-easy installation in most cases
-saves money over long run if you throw weights all the time like I do (Les Schwab is about $50 to balance a set of tires)
-longer tire life(truckers report 200K out of a set of tires)
-Many applications available (see link above)
CONS:
-Cost: about $200 a set
-Would not clear my front caliper with out wheel spacers
-when you stop, they kind of have to start over again as the internal weights inside settle to the bottom of the ring. It works as you pick up speed.
Overall I very happy with them. They balanced out my big tires that had a ton of weight on them. I will probably knock the external lead weights off them (gonna fall off anyway).
along with well maintained parts like mentioned above.
The surefire cure is to run a set of 225/75/15's like it came stock with...but that cure sucks
edit:
those should be upgraded too...but most importantly IMO is Brakes
Last edited by dropzone; May 8, 2011 at 05:15 AM.
May 8, 2011 | 08:27 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 538
Likes: 6
From: Carson City
The best thing you can do for big tires to offset the power loss and mpg is to regear the diffs to best match the OEM overall gear ratio. Do this and you don't have to smoke the clutch taking off from every stop light, etc. My 22RE with 4.10 gears and 31 x 10.5 BFG's was pretty much a dog. I ended up with 33's and 4.88 gears and the overall gearing is almost back to stock and very streetable.
If you stay stock, the CV's are probably the most vulnerable to wear and tear and even breaking if you are careless with the extra rotating mass.
If you stay stock, the CV's are probably the most vulnerable to wear and tear and even breaking if you are careless with the extra rotating mass.
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May 8, 2011 | 08:31 AM
#8
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 538
Likes: 6
From: Carson City
and those wheel balancers are sweet. I bet they cost a pretty penny though huh?
I did have the tires balanced at a shop. but since then Ive abused the crap out of them and each one has atleast one plug
I did have the tires balanced at a shop. but since then Ive abused the crap out of them and each one has atleast one plug
May 8, 2011 | 08:36 AM
#9
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,369
Likes: 2
From: Clarksville, TN / Ft. Campbell
As bad as it may look, and as much as I hate to say it... For a trip like that, I'd go with smaller tires than 31s. That's just me. It'll help your gas mileage and weigh you down a little less
I'm running 265/75/16s and they are a little bigger than my old 31x10.5s. Never had an issue with my 31s rubbing.. and these 265s rub like crazy even with 25% tread.
I'm running 265/75/16s and they are a little bigger than my old 31x10.5s. Never had an issue with my 31s rubbing.. and these 265s rub like crazy even with 25% tread.
May 8, 2011 | 09:00 AM
#10
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 538
Likes: 6
From: Carson City
As bad as it may look, and as much as I hate to say it... For a trip like that, I'd go with smaller tires than 31s. That's just me. It'll help your gas mileage and weigh you down a little less
I'm running 265/75/16s and they are a little bigger than my old 31x10.5s. Never had an issue with my 31s rubbing.. and these 265s rub like crazy even with 25% tread.
I'm running 265/75/16s and they are a little bigger than my old 31x10.5s. Never had an issue with my 31s rubbing.. and these 265s rub like crazy even with 25% tread.
I was thinking the same thing. I hav emy old 31's sitting around I think, but I might regear before I leave also.
I dunno
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