I started hearing the sound of the wear indicator and when I was looking at the pads I could see uneven wear indicating a stuck caliper. I went with a re-manufactured unit from A1 Cardone. Of course there were complications such as having to make up a new piece of steel break line that runs to the caliper not to mention the rain, sleet, snow, and wind I was working around. Then when I got to the other side to change out the pads the pins were rusted solid to the caliper housing. I went with another unit from A1 Cardone to play it safe since brakes come in handy at times. It only took me an hour or two using a cheater bar to get the caliper mounting bolts broke free. Funny that the pads were still in good shape, but everything else looked like it hadn't been touched since it left the factory 22 years ago. I guess the last person to do a break job didn't believe in anti-seize or break grease. All of these maintenance/ small repair jobs are starting to add up and makes me wonder about the sense in keeping a 22 year old vehicle up and running. I suppose it beats having a monthly truck payment.

 

I literaly swapped new rotors and pads on my truck this past friday. The drivers side caliper was leaking a little fluid around the piston but it was 11 pm so I put it back together to see how she was gonna do. I now have the drivers side sticking and has warped the new rotor. I got to swap out calipers this weekend. I feel your pain.

How much were the calipers you bought? Advanced auto here in town wants 50 bucks each!!!

 

I don't believe in break grease either..

Davez are 39.99 each for 4cyl calipers
59.99 for v6
http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...-calipers.html


Wabfab is $109 for a pair of V6!, there is also a 5% discount you can use..
http://www.wabfab.org/Brakes/Brake-C...ypage.tpl.html

 

Ill look into those. Mine is a 4 banger so looks like they are cheaper of the 2 at least.

 

I paid $46 a piece at O'Reillys. Surprisingly, they were in stock. If someone had lubed the pins with grease, anti-seize, etc. my job would have been easier.

 

I'm glad I live in CA....
The weather must makes working on your vehicle more difficult.

 

Yep, it was snowing yesterday and today it was sunny, warm, and clear blue sky......typical Spring weather in the Southern Appalachians.

 

Using anti seize on a 60,000 mile+ brake job concerning the pins isnt going to mean that much, especially if you wheel it any... And remember over greasing the pins will drop on the brake pads and thats no good.

Best thing to do is a day or two ahead of the actual job wire wheel/brush the pins in the inside of the caliper and Wd-40/Pb it. Then on the day of the job take a pair of vice grips and clamp the inside pin part and twist is so that the rust is broken free and it spins. Then just use a punch and hit them out to a certain point to where you can pull/twist them out.

Once out make sure you wire wheel/sand them down so they go back in easier.

 

As long as your not spending more on repairs than you would a payment every month.

I dread anything with front breaks on my trucks. Rust is a killer.

 

hahaha i do too but weve got about 70 ft of snow so far this year....

 

The V6 calipers mount right up, just need the V6 rotors to match, they are vented.

Then you can put the 4 banger calipers in the rear, ditch the drums, with an bracket.