Hi all, my keys work in all doors EXCEPT rear lock. Will not turn, not even budge (acts like it is locked but does open using rear latch). Other than that, rear hatch works perfectly - locks/unlocks using inside button, rear window goes up/down, rear wiper works. Does this indicate the lock mechanism itself needs replacing??

I've owned vehicle for over 1 year and first time tackling this - I'd like to start operating the window up/down from outside using the key. Hopefully this fix is an easy, cheap DIY...any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

JamesDinan
'97 4Runner SR5 4x4, Manual

 

How many cuts does the key have on one side?

valet key?

 

if the lock has not been used in a while it could lock up, spray some lube in there and work the key a couple times if it still doesn't open then flip key over and try sometimes the cut is just a little off and one side works better then the other, if that doesn't work with all the keys u have then i would say that someone has changed that lock and u don't have a key, u might be able to pull the lock and see if it has a key code on it, take it to the lock smith or dealer and have them cut and key and try it, if all else doesn't work then u will need to replace it and going to have a different key for that door.

 

yeah i have that same issue it worked when i first got my runner but now for some reason it doesnt i will try to lube it up first. thanks for the good question i kinda forgot about mine.

 

I guess I wonder why you would even mind that it does not unlock at the hatch itself?

Just curious...

It's not that big a hassle (is it?) to just unlock with the key fob or go to the drivers door and hit the unlock. Perhaps you don't have the electronic key fob?

 

If I'm understanding you right, you CAN operate the windows up and down and it DOES unlock from the switches inside, but the key itself will not unlock the rear hatch? If so then it sounds like the linkage from the actual lock cylinder itself is loose. Now I'm speaking from GM experience only but there usually are 2 linkages to unlock the rear hatch. One electronically through a lock actuator, and one mechanically (with a key). I know from experience if the hatch locks with a key but not by remote or switch then either I have an electrical problem or the actuator is bad. If it works electronically but not mechanically then the rod has fallen out of place or the tumblers inside of the lock is worn down.

 

FWIW, when I bought my '97 4Runner new, it came with three keys. Two had the black plastic head on them, and operated all the locks on the vehicle.

The other single key was the Valet key, and is all metal. It operates all the keyed items EXCEPT the back hatch, and the glovebox.

I'm guessing you have the Valet key, or a copy of the Valet key.

 

Hi Ron, I am not as concerned with locking/unlocking as I am with regaining ability of operating rear window via the key. There have been times where accessing rear cargo through window vs. opening hatch would've been much easier.

I have a discontinued "Securikey+" key ("gulf region" ers know what I'm talking about) and is a bit flimsy so I stopped using it. The newer key I have is key-only with no fob.

No, not really a hassle using the driver's door (been doing that over a year now), but, would like to finally cross this off the list of things to address. Maybe it's the Spring in the air...ha

 

Hi O2SE,

My main key is a very flimsy "Securikey+" (only key that vehicle came with when I purchased it used), which has the included lock/unlock fob attached to the key and I stopped using it. I had a key made like you described with the plastic head. Neither operates rear lock. From my research, Securikeys are not valet keys.

 

Just checked...both keys DO operate the glove compartment. So, definitely not a valet key.

 

thanks James for more explanation-I did not pick up on the fact the rear keyhole would not lower or raise the window-I thought it was simply not unlocking the rear hatch (door).

So it sounds like 02Se is on to something. Test that same key in the glove box. If it does not work the glove box either- you simply have a valet key. (EDIT) never mind you tried that....

Good luck !

 

Hi etc.

Not exactly sure what all constitutes a cut but, at least 3 cuts on either side. Key DOES operate glove compartment so, I believe that rules-out valet key.

 

Ron, just finished glove compartment test and both keys do work. So, not valet.

I had actually kinda forgotten about the key operating the window too until I saw a distant neighbor use theirs the other day...kinda opened the wound about mine. ha

 

lube it

 

Hi IronMike,

Yes, you got it. Also, since I cannot turn the key in the rear lock, I can neither operate the rear window from the outside (it DOES work from inside though). Definitely not an issue of electronics.

So, does that mean my next step at this point is to somehow extract the lock and bring it to a locksmith/dealer for inspection?

 

Ron, nice ride! (I just checked-out your pics on FB). Your baselink...how do you like it in your rig and, did you hear much different from mounting vertically vs. horizontally? I had same model Link in my Acura but sold it. I need my cargo space so sub box is not gonna happen unless I somehow mount under seats...I am thinking about going with the Link again...you mentioned not having the wired remote...ever consider buying one and mounting upfront?? I think they are super inexpensive...

 

I had kind of the same problem on my Corolla - what happened was the key had worn down so would only work in the driver's door and ignition. I grabbed a spare key and it works - looks a lot less worn. Take your vin to the dealer and get a new key... Could also be a replacement rear hatch if it was wrecked.

 

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It seems to me at one time maybe the whole rear hatch was changed without replacing or rekeying the lock cylinder.

Remove the lock cylinder from the hatch should be held in by a clip not sure if the rear trim needs to come off as well plus the linkage.

Take the cylinder to a lock smith and have them rekey to fit your ignition key then it should all work like it should.

If you take it to the dealer they maybe could make a key from the the vin but it would not work on your hatch because it is not the original one.

Locksmith will fix your problem

 

Well I was going to explain the process to do it yourself but it's quite long and probably not so novice friendly. Once you know how to do it then it's not as complicated but you need steady hands and know what the key codes are for your vehicle. If you want me to walk you through it then I can just either reply or PM me.

I'm still inclined to believe a rod may have worked itself loose from the manual lock (if it's similar to GM) you'll have 2 like I said. One for the electrical and another for the manual lock. Probably need to pull the cover off first and see if the linkages or rods are still in place. If they are then I'd call a locksmith to recode it back to the factory codes or if you so opt to, then get another key made specifically for the hatch.