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fluid clutch and cold nights

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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
Rusted Rooster's Avatar
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From: illinois
fluid clutch and cold nights

My clutch pedal goes to floor after a really cold night, after a couple of pumps it come back? is something going out, or is this common in like zero temps? 1986 4x4 truck 22r 5speed. no leaks that i see, and fluid is ok. thanks guys.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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From: Gainesville Texas
Have you tried to bleed it yet? May have a bit of air in the line
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 05:52 PM
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just call me smithy's Avatar
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X2 on bleeding the clutch. If this don't help your seals on the master or slave may need to be replaced.
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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From: Spokane, WA
I don't get it.
Your clutch is going to the floor?
That's normal, lol.
Is it going to the floor but not disengaging the transmission from the engine?
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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From: Cohutta (near Dalton) Georgia
im guessing he means its super soft and not wanting to spring back very hard
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 06:36 PM
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Could be air and it's worth trying to bleed, but what you described is what happens when the master cylinder starts to go. Either replace the seals (available from the dealer) or new Aisin master and slave cyls are pretty cheap at autohausaz.com.

If the fluid hasn't been changed for a long time, it probably has absorbed a lot of water, and aside from that making the fluid acidic and therefore corrosive, it may get really thick in very cold temps. So probably best to completely flush the fluid with a good quality DOT 4 fluid, when you go to bleed it.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:50 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Is it possible this might be the original clutch master cylinder.

Has anything been replaced ?/ The cold can effect the seals on both Master and slave cylinders.

What could happen as the steel fittings shrink from the cold it is enough to suck in air but not lose fluid letting the clutch go to the floor but not have any pressure built in system.

Then a few pumps of the pedal your good to go till next time
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:47 AM
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Yes, the master and slave cylinders are 1986 original....only 53,000 miles but 23years old i suppose, Should i replace both, or just the master? Thank you for all the support here!
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:04 AM
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From: southeast Ohio
As cheap to buy and relatively easy to fix I would replace both for piece of mind. Since to me the clutch and components are as important as the brakes. I would do both. You should be able to do it all for under $100
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 10:35 AM
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From: Connecticut
At autohausaz the Aisin master is only $46 and the slave is $35 with free ground ship on orders over $50. Best to replace them both, since the slave usually goes bad quicker than the master, or at least as fast. If using faster shipping, autohausaz will give credit for the value of ground UPS. They're a great vendor - I've always been happy with my orders from them.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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From: CA
You should replace both as there is no way to know for certain which cylinder was bypassing. Also, if you only change one, there may still be contaminants in the other cylinder which could cause failure in the new one.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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From: illinois
THanks to all ,,will replace both,, with update when done,,have a great weekend!
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 07:15 PM
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I had this same thing happen to me the other day. The only difference: my clutch never came back. After popping the hood i noticed there was no fluid which is weird because it was full the night before. I just filled it, bled it, and its working again.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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My99's Avatar
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From: Fayetteville, AR
No reason to replace both unless you just want to, IMO. FWIW, my slave showed similar symptoms when it was leaking.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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From: illinois
Went ahead and orderd both from autohausaz, Aisin oem, $81 free shipping. thanks again!
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 07:10 AM
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Got job done, Went well,, should be put to the test this week, sub zero temps this week!.....thhanks again to all!
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