Transfer Case Won't Go Into 2WD
#1
Transfer Case Won't Go Into 2WD
As it sits right now, it will shift 4HI and 4LO just fine, but to get the leaver into 2HI, I have to roll and force the leaver with the truck running, then shut the truck off, and out and back into 2 to get it to work. With the truck off an in 4, it won't go into 2 until after I roll and force the leaver. If I just force it into 2 from 4, it will drive but the front drive shaft still turns with the hubs unlocked. I'm gonna try to change the tcase oil but is this a sign that it's going out? It's an '86 4Runner 22RE and original transmission and tcase with 225k on it
Last edited by InvaderTrax; Dec 13, 2010 at 09:52 AM.
#4
When I first got it it worked quite easily. Then I managed to get it caked with mud. Took it out and cleaned it and it was fine, but today it doesn't want to shift. I figured it was just cold but even after I drove around for an hour it still wouldn't move properly. Driving around in 2 with the front driveshaft turning produces a very loud roaring noise, which went away when I shut it off, put it into 4 then 2 and drove off again
#5
When I first got it it worked quite easily. Then I managed to get it caked with mud. Took it out and cleaned it and it was fine, but today it doesn't want to shift. I figured it was just cold but even after I drove around for an hour it still wouldn't move properly. Driving around in 2 with the front driveshaft turning produces a very loud roaring noise, which went away when I shut it off, put it into 4 then 2 and drove off again
And that roaring isn't normal. Check your U/Double Cardan joints.
#6
The roaring only happened when the leaver was in 2 and the driveshaft was still spinning, and then only intermittently. Driving around with it actually in 4 it made no noises. The part that had me worried was with the stick in 2 and the front drive shaft live, I could lock the hubs but the front wheels weren't actually pulling the truck. If I met a slippery hill, the rears would spin and the fronts wouldn't. Same spot with the stick in 4, it was just fine
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#10
On my '91, to go from 4h to 2h, I usually have to get a little speed on, then while applying pressure to the lever, just give a quick lift on the throttle. That momentarily gives some slack to the dogs, allowing them to disengage, and it slips right in to 2h.
If I try to do it in my driveway, once in a while I have to back a few feet in reverse, and kind of do the same as above.
The secret is to get the dogs to kind of rock from having the force in one direction to the other.
Kinda hard to explain.
If I try to do it in my driveway, once in a while I have to back a few feet in reverse, and kind of do the same as above.
The secret is to get the dogs to kind of rock from having the force in one direction to the other.
Kinda hard to explain.
#11
on these truck you should have add (auto disengaging diffs) the system should be vacuum run you will prob find that the one way valve is blocked and the solenoid on the front diff has locked in place check the valve and your vac lines from engine to vac tank and vac tank to diffs its always usualy the valve thats blocked though. the other common fault is the vac tank is behind the right hand side wheel arch lining and they do corrode and leak which then causes the solenoid to kick in and have permanant 4wd be very carful trying to force it in to 2wd or you might end up getting a new diff. the diffs can change on the move but not above 15mph as the crown gears cant engage properly and you will smooth off the cogs in the diff. the valve im on about is a one way valve and is the blue cylinder thing in the pic. if all is ok its the actuator/solenoid fitted to the front diff on the front of it. unplug it and attach a 12v supply a listen/feel for it to click or you should feel it open close if you hold it while you check it, if it doesnt click or vibrate then its that that is fubar and need to replace which isnt a very hard job at all. hope this helps you all.
Last edited by sabreuk; Dec 17, 2010 at 04:55 PM.
#12
heres a link as to how to check and sort add probs if my previous post was a bit confusing http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/add.htm
#13
I've got a base 93 Xtracab with manual hubs/22RE/5speed and I was having a heck of a time going from 4wd to 2wd moving forward tonight. I could engage 4wd with the truck stopped, but it would absolutely not go back into 2wd with the clutch in at about 3MPH mph. I had to take it around my parking lot trying to get it back into 2wd. Probably not the best for it since it was only damp/sandy out, but I probably only traveled about 100 feet and didn't take any sharp corners. I ended up having to use reverse to get it out of 4wd. I got it out of 4wd once by going maybe 5-7 MPH and it make a thunk when I did that.
I'm going to replace the transfer and transmission fluid soon with Redline MT90, so I'm hoping that will help things along.
Can anyone tell me if I'm going to run into any bigger problems in the future? Am I doing something wrong? should I just assume that the only way to get it out of 4wd will be using reverse? Hopefully I haven't damaged anything since I only drove it a few feet in both 4wd with damp/sandy pavement (I felt some minor binding at one point). I've got an AWD car already and have had some experience with a 4wd SUV with ADD which goes in and out at will, but where this didn't go out of 4wd moving forward, should I be worried?
I'm going to replace the transfer and transmission fluid soon with Redline MT90, so I'm hoping that will help things along.
Can anyone tell me if I'm going to run into any bigger problems in the future? Am I doing something wrong? should I just assume that the only way to get it out of 4wd will be using reverse? Hopefully I haven't damaged anything since I only drove it a few feet in both 4wd with damp/sandy pavement (I felt some minor binding at one point). I've got an AWD car already and have had some experience with a 4wd SUV with ADD which goes in and out at will, but where this didn't go out of 4wd moving forward, should I be worried?
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