Well this should tax the brains of even the wisest of Yota Gurus.

I posted a while back about an intermittent no spark condition on my 91 Runner 3vze.

Long story short - I have replaced the VAF, COIL, IGNITER, and DISTRIBUTOR. Still having same issue.

The issue is that there is no spark when cranking but when I stop cranking it sparks once or twice.

Well I have figured out that if I squirt a shot or 2 of starting fluid into the intake I can get the engine fire and run. But it runs very rough and does not stay running unless I am constantly feathering the throttle. It will idle on its own for a few seconds but that is it.

I am beginning to think that this may not be an ignition issue but a fuel issue. (the computer not sensing something correctly with the fuel system and therefore shutting down spark)?

Anyway, I am at a loss and would love any suggestions or advice. Going to the toyota dealer today to see if I can talk to a mechanic and get some advice that way too.

Thanks in advance
Pastor Brad

 

timing belt off? I'm not super familar with the 3.0 but that's the first thing that comes to mind.

 

Had same type problem --- It was a bad battery, even though it showed almost 13 volts when not running.
Drove me nuts trying to figure it out

 

So what has been done to it prior to this condition?

Could be injector issues, could be a fuel pressure regulator issue, could be a fuel pump issue. Have you pulled ECU codes?

 

This is a possibility, too. Or bad ground as well.

 

Had trouble codes for intake air temp sensor (VAF) and Oxygen sensor. Both have been replaced and codes are no longer present.

Never thought of the battery I suppose I could try a different battery - is this really a possibiluty because once it is running and the alernator is charging the issue should clear up not??

 

OP: fixed your thread title, per the rules: Frustration = Through the ROOF!!! - Still no Spark - ish... could have lead to deletion. In the future please make your thread titles relevant to your issue.

 

I had the same sort of issue with my old 3.0. I had put a k&n intake on it, and during install, my buddy knocked the VAF off the work bench. Two day's later, it died while driving, and the only way I could get it to run was with starting fluid and feathering the throttle. Turned out that dropping the meter had broken some excess solder loose, and it jammed between two points of the meter. I know it says you've replaced the airflow meter, but did you check the wiring?

 

I guess my battery had some bad cells
Not sure but after the new one was in --- no mo problems -- but it sure acted like an induction issue.

 

Quick Update - Did a little more tinkering this afternoon and it seems to be running extremely rich - so much so that the exhaust smells very gassy. Of course now that it has been running for a few minutes it has died again and will not start - same issue crank crank crank - no spark until I let off the key and then a snap or 2 but not enought to fire the engine.

Talked to the guys at the yota dealership and his answer was basically keep throwing parts at it until you find the problem.

GRRRRR!!!!

 

Is it possible that the ecu is sensing too rich of a mixture and there fore cutting off spark - maybe a dumb question but I am grasping at straws at this point

 

let's go back to your 1st post-- you said it will start if you spray starting fluid in the intake.
That would tell me fuel delivery issue!
Get some help ... get an empty milk jug and take off the fuel line -- put in jug -- have someone turn key-- watch for flow. If you have flow put a fuel pressure gauge inline and test for proper pressure.
Only other fuel issue that comes to mind is possible injectors not firing or stopped up?

If not you still have an ignition issue or maybe an ECU problem

 

I forgot to mention that I have done fuel pressure test and it consistently has fuel pressure within spec according to Toyota Service Manual. Have also replaced fuel filter within the last 2000 miles. Like I said yeterday I am beginning to think the issue maybe due to running to rich, because it stinks like gas something terrible. So possibly ECU cutting back spark to compensate or something stupid like that. I am going to try a different battery today I have an extra one so I will see what happens. Still open to suggestions though.

 

Oh and 1 more thing. I found a 2000 Runner with 122000 miles on it for 8000 what do ya'll think, Deal or no deal???

 

It's a Toyota
Just make sure it hasn't been wrecked or abused. Not real sure but 8k seems a little steep??

 

OK - More updates - This morning I went out and started her up and she fired almost instantly and ran smooth for about 1 1/2 - 2 mins and then started doing the same thing. Wouldn't stay runnin unless I was feathering the throttle.

So I thought I would check out the timing belt just to make sure everything was ok. When I pulled the timing belt cover I noticed that the spring for the tension had fallen off and was laying in the bottom of the timing belt housing. So I replaced the spring and rest all the timing marks thinking I had found the problem.

But alas it was not to be. I put everything back together and the same problem still existed.

So I thought I would try one more experiment. When it was cold the vehicle started great so I removed the computer and put it in the freezer fr about 30 minutes. took it out and it was very cold (just like the weather here last night). Reinstalled the puter and still nothing. No spark while cranking just a snap or 2 at the last second.

So unfortunately - still at square one.

 

Stuck EGR valve will do what you describe. Pull the top vacuum lead off and plug the hose.

 

You have listed a few different symptoms which dont seem related ( which is possible).

In you first post you said you had no spark , but in your last post you said it would run fine for a few minutes and then die.

With your latest symtoms, running fine when cold and then dying rich ,I would check your coolent temp sensor. The coolent temp sensor is a master sensor and will affect how almost every other sensor on the engine operates.( check the wires, plug, and sensor itself).

How are you testing for spark( are you grounding the plugs properly while testing ,or are you using a spark checker)? Are you looking at the spark out in the sunlight? If your spark is weak, even somthing as simple as leaky/bad plug wires or wrong plug gap could cause it.