Ive been searching all over for a method of tricking the computer into thinking the knock sensor is working fine. But I cant find anything solid. Mine is destroyed. I cant reallyt afford a new one. But if there was a way to fool the computer with a ohm resistor like other people do for the EGR then i would give it a shot. Anyone ever tried it?

 

Just grab one from a junkyard then. Bypassing the knock sensor will result in timing retard and a check engine light. (read: loss of power and poor fuel economy)

 

Having a knock sensor is a really good idea. Say you're running lean, you don't realize it, cylinder temps go up, you have no idea, next thing you know you have white smoke out the tailpipe. I've never tried it and never will. Atleast try and find a used one. Nix99 is a good place to check.

 

my ks went out and I rounded up a used one from a yota bone yard, i'm going to mount it in my engine hook and hard wire it to the harness from there and leave the old one right where it is.

This seems like the best first step to me as I dont have to tear the intake off buy new gaskets etc...

I'm still reading up on how well the ks works in this location,

any body with opinions on this location please add them

 

My opinion, factory location is the most ideal. Engine knock creates a frequency that's detected by the sensor. Right against the engine block (or manifold), where knock would occur, just makes sense. Otherwise, I think Toyota could've/would've stuck in in any 'ol place.

Maybe read this:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h38.pdf

 

I suppose that link doesn't say a whole lot you probably don't already know. Sorry. Nevertheless, having the sensor mounted on the engine hook, while it is attached to the head, just doesn't seem like it would be a sensitive enough placement. Maybe if the sensor were actually inside the body of the head that would be different. Only my opinion, though.

 

Shame we cant tune our computers. I turned my ks off on my Mach1 with sct
software. The blower was tricking the ks.

Id run one even if its a used one. But Id probably try and get a new one...ya know...

 

The KS is a piezo-electric device, so puts out a tiny voltage in relation to engine vibrations. Hard to duplicate a similar signal (passive devices like resistors, capacitors won't work). I picked up a used KS off of e-bay for about $20 as I recall.

 

I believe the late 22R EFI in those cars... Dangit... Didn't have a KS.


Dangit. What was the 1st 22R EFI in? A Celica?

If I recall, 84 EFI Celica's didn't have KS's.


Notice anything funny?

 

Your oil cap was designed by BP?

 

 

hahaha lol !!

 

 

I just got done with my head gasket replacement on my 1995 3.0vze and I have double checked all my wires. I had port matched the heads with the intake and plenum. I replaced my knock sensor too and bypassed the EGR with the 10 Ohm resistor and have new downey headers. There are no vacuum leaks that I can find and even if there were the car would at least try to start. You would think all would be well but all I can do is get the engine to turnover. I have checked for spark and its good. I have fuel pressure. I loosened the cold start injector just enough to see it start to spray. I know my timing belt is perfect down to the degree and my rotor and cap are new. At top dead center 0 degrees i have the rotor pointing dead center at the #1 cylinder. The only conclusion I can come to is that something is telling my ECU not to fire the injectors. I have been messing with the TPS all day and double checking. Why code 41 and code 12? everything seems fine. I cant even get a backfire or a stumble. I checked through a lot of forums and got a lot of confusion. Some people say this some sat that.
Thanks Yall

 

With the code 41 on a 22re, (I know you have V6, but i have no experience with the 3.0) I know that usually means TPS but it also will point to an erratic idle. Make sure you're idle isn't set too high. Did you try pulling the EFI fuse to clear codes just in case?

Are you sure you adjusted the TPS properly?

 

No I'm not sure I adjusted the Tps properly. I just tried it with two people while I adjusted every possible way. I pulled the little 15 amp efi fuse then put it back in. No change.

 

I've just replaced the HG on my 95 3.0 I took the time to portmatch plenum all the way down to the heads. I reassembled and even replaced knock sensor. My computer gives me codes 41 and 12. TPS and distributor. The TPS I have set back like it was and have even replaced with a known working one. I get plenty of spark. I can't tell too much about the fuel but I know they are getting the voltage to fire. Compression is perfect. T belt is perfect and the rotor is just at #1 when I have everything at top dead center. I can't even get a backfire. Nothing. Just constant cranking. I've almost killed a new battery. I'm really lost. I did bypass the EGR with a 10 ohm. That's not throwing a code. Everything is grounded the whole engine and engine bay. All is hooked up. This defies physics.

 

Oh and vacuum leaks have been checked. I've blocked off everything. The pair reed is gone. That end of the hose now has a mini filter on it. Also I can't get any fuel to return from the pressure regulator I even tried sucking to see if any was going to come out. My rotor cap plugs and wires are all new too. One thing. I don't have the radiator hooked up. There is no coolant in the system. I was waiting gonads if it would start first.

 

Is there gas in it? just cause the injectors fire doesnt mean there is fuel going through em....

 

Yea it's got plenty of gas.