i was very careful marking my cams before disassembly then I rebuilt the engine from top to bottom during the reassembly stage when it came to put the timing belt on I found i could not line up the marks I made before breaking it down they were 1/2 tooth off to the right when looking at the front of the engine so being confused i put the old belt on to see if it would line up and no they wont. I am using a toyota belt if i line up the whitew line reference marks on the new belt the distributor is now 1/2 tooth off to be able to time it it is not lined up in the middle of the slot so i retarded the cams one tooth each CCW and the distributor can time the engine and be in the middle of the slot but the factory marks on the new belt are not correct and the cams are 1/2 tooth both retarded it runs smootha nd sounds good but it has no low end torque so i NO ITS NOT RIGHT. the engine had more power than this before the rebuild anyone know about this? I am a seasoned mechanic and machinist and its got me stumped help would be greatly appreciated..

 

The new belt is Toyota? Or the old one?

And what side is the half on? Advance? Or retard side?

If it's on the advance side it might need to stretch out some... IDK. This is new to me...

Tell ya what. If it's a Toyota belt, take it back and get another one, sorry.

If it's NOT a Toyota belt, immediately burn it (to appease the Toyota gods) and go and get a Toyota belt.

 

1st thing is belt, never use a belt on a 3vz that's not a Toyota belt.

Toyota BELT ONLY!

2nd is head gasket or milled head widths can screw with the deck heights...

 

When you line up the parts on the Toyota belt they are 1/2 tooth clockwise, looks to be advanced and doesn't run. The original belt was a Good Year T240 motor ran great. The first new belt was a Carquest T240 and it didn't line up. Now I have a Toyota belt and it's the same exact spot as the Carquest and the original Goodyear. Toyota water pump - brand new. thanks for your thoughts. Any other help would be greatly appreciated.

 

And you're timing this with the Te - E1 jumped, right?

I wouldn't worry about the "middle of the slot" as much as just putting it back right.


The original belt was also before you rebuilt the engine, no?

 

correct after rebuild they dont line up i am using the jumper and the check engine light is flashing when jumper is installed something mechanically is different with everything having dowel pins and woodruff key on crank it should be fail safe the 1/2 tooth is a mystery i thought maybe if used after market water pump from pulley being off on diamater or something but its all toy parts

 

Did you mill the head(s)? And what head gaskets did you use?

 

did not mill the heads and used Rock Gasket rebuild gasket set I have used that set before this is my 6th 3vze i have rebuilt when the cam marks are lined up with my marks the crank is 5 degrees BTDC

 

I had a T-Belt from somewhere esle and been working great. I tought that I should change it so I went and bought a toyota belt. To my surprise the belt is not that wide and didn't even covered the whole cams but it work... Two years later at only 30,000 miles, the belt is damage and what cause it was the tension spring was pull so hard by the belt that the screw got loose and belt snap from it... I went back to my old t-belt until next spring I will change it out. Will not buy the toyota belt no more, IMO... The toyota t-belt is tighter than my current but toyota said that it is the correct one...

 

I'm having this same problem right now. Cam pulleys are perfect. Crank is less than 1/2 tooth off. Any other guidance would be appreciated. If I use the marks on the belt for the crank it is over a tooth off. Gates or Toyota does not make a difference for me. Engine has not been rebuilt. I should have counted the teeth...

 

this is completly normal. i always put the crank marks lined up, then install the belt, and the cam pulley to your left will always be half a tooth off. this goes for pretty much any timing belt on any motor. even if its a sohc 4 banger, the cam pulley will usually be just a hair off.

 

My only thought is to loosen the cam bolt and try to get the slack in the gear to cam all to one side. i just rebuilt one head on my 3.0 and was supprised how much play there was in the cam to cam gear. hopefully you understand what im trying to say

 

the cam pulley is keyed to the camshaft itself, so there is no moving the pulley by itself without the cam also turning with it.

 

There's some wiggle at the woodruff key. Not a lot.
If you can get your cams to line up perfectly and/or while the crank is lined up perfect too, your damn lucky. I can't on my 88 3VZE, no matter how hard I try. Best I can do is try to get as close as possible on all 3 of them when (re)installing it. Which it sounds like you've pretty well done in my book. I'd call it good.

 

Yes i know, how ever at least on mine (92 3.0) the cams had a pin from the gear and not a woodruff key. they had quite a bit of slop when compaired to say the crank gear (no movement at all). Im just thrownin out ideas but between the two gears i think you could get some play.

 

also i know the belt is different between manual and hydr tensioner

 

X2

Exactly right, they're keyed, just no keys, pins(dowels?) instead. Perfect description otherwise. That's what I meant to say...IOW.

 

Awesome input form you'all! Truck is together and running much better than before. I ended making a Toyota Service Specialty Tool (SST) for both the crank and cam shafts. If anyone is having the trouble I had removing these bolts this helps. My air impact would no touch them, but with this tool and a 4 ft. breaker bar I was victorious!!

Thanks Again,

Al

 

I'm having the 1/2 tooth off belt problem with my 1990 3.0. I haven't found an answer to the problem yet. I understand all the timing marks, but starting from the crank belt pully to the drivers side cam pully it will not match perfectly, 1/2 tooth off, making both cams off after rotating 2 full turns. Thanks for any help.

 

got to use Toyota belt....