Supposedly, I have read that this product is great stuff and will clean an engine that maybe old and has a lot of carbon buildup. I don't ever trust what I read though.

Here's one article on the stuff.

One thing though if it does dislodge carbon particles, isn't it possible in California vehicles that the loose particles can get caught in the EGR valves?

Gadget maybe you can shed some light on this product.

 

I've heard good stuff about Seafoam on this board or TTORA. I need to do this to my 3.0 as there is a lot of carbon in the intake track. Most of it is right around the EGR and cold injector. I think its the EGR that puts the carbon in their. Don't all newer cars have an EGR by the way, not just Cal. I don't think the stuff would clog it up anyway because the exhaust gas is coming out of it. The EGR is not open all the time either. It depends on RPM. Maybe thats why Seafoam is injected at idle. Seems like a lot of smoke comes out while doing it. Just found a bunch of stuff here http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...70-115441-JCMB on seafoam.

 

Sounds like a nice product I think, but the only Seafoam I've heard of was the color of my ex-g/f's Chevy.

-=A=- :beaver:

 

will all that stuff clog up your catalytic converters? Cats are very expensive to replace.
I don't know if I like anything that has the words "foam" and "engine" in the same sentence.

 

The stuff's great. I use Deep Creep on my air intake. It cleans without drying up seals, bushings, etc. I've heard nothing but good about the engine cleaner also at any garage where I've inquired. Sea Foam is the trade name, but it's a liquid solvent like all the other top end cleaners out there.

 

Ive used it, well not on the 4runner yet, but still. It is great stuff, really does a nice job cleaning out buildup.

 

Sea Foam...you can ge it at Lowes Paint deparment it's in the signature colors...very nice greenish blue I painted a single wide trailer, turned out nice

 

Lmao...

Yah..um don't think I will be pouring that stuff into my gas tank...hehe.

Actually I may use it for the Honda I have, don't need it for the Tundra yet, as it runs smooth as a gazelle.

 

Will Tectron do the same thing as sea foam? I have 60,000 on my 01 taco 4x4 S5 2.7 and just did a complete tunup. It runs great . About a month ago i noticed a little tapping noise for a few seconds when i started it up. Ran 5,000 miles on Mobile1 and just had a oil change done with new filter and Mobile 1 and the noise is gone but thought there may be a little carbon buildup.What's the best cleaner to use for this? Thank's, Mike

 

I still question Seafoam, but to answer your question, Techron I put in everytime I do an oil change (every 3000), so no harm is done if you put it in.

For stronger stuff, get this stuff called BG44 at any retailer, it's a stronger fuel system cleaner and that you at the very least want to use that once a year.

You can buy it here or cheaper there

 

Thanks Mohamed. I'll try some of that next time. Mike

 

BG Products makes a damn good injector and top-end cleaner/decarbonizer. Seafoam also works good if you're on a budget. The best way to use the stuff is on a warm engine. Suck it in through a vacuum port that will allow the solvent to be distributed to the entire intake manifold. Give it more and more until the engine wants to stall but without hydro locking it and then cut the engine and let it sit for maybe half an hour or so. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute or two and give it a quick rev to get most of it into the exhaust. Do an oil change because the oil now has solvent in it. Now go run the vehicle nice and hard and watch as everyone gives you funny looks because your truck is smoking so bad. Congratulations, you just did a hell of a cleaning job to your motor. As for the EGR system, I wouldn't worry about it. They can get plugged up if you use water but since you're using solvent it's unlikely. Disconnect the EGR valve while you're performing the top-end service if you want.

 

Exactly what I did to my impala ss. Pulled the intake off before and after, you would be amazed at all the crap that got blown out. Don't rev it in your driveway for a couple f days though, it will blow that junk right out the pipes, hard to get off concrete

 

I just did this last night, and I forgot to get pictures. Funny thing is I was in class and people thought my car was on fire because of the horrendous smoke that came out the tailpipes (mind you the tail pipes where connected to an exhaust and it still managed to escape).

So number one is make sure you are well ventielated area (like OUTSIDE...I mean way outside the garage). The car does need to be at operating temperature so I recommend say going to the store and come back home. You might even want to stop by home depot and get a 1.5 ft of 1/4" clear tubing, I'll explain why in a second.

When you get home, with the engine off, disconnect the vaccum hose before (this would be the black 1/2" tubing that appears to run from the intake area to a check valve, in my '95 Accord it was colored gray, just above the brake booster. You want to use the hose obviously before the check valve cause the check valve is only a one way deal. Toyota's may not have a check valve and if that is the case, you disconnect at the brake booster inlet line and use that hose. If you notice, the seafoam can opening is kinda small for the 1/2" black vaccum hose, so this is where that 1/4" clear tubing comes into play. Stick an end into the black tubing, and keep the other end exposed as you are going to dip that into the can. Have an assistant start the car, and have him hold the RPM's as best as he can at 2,000-2500 RPMs. Obviously don't press the brake while you are doing this, and do not have any accessories running like the a/c, or try to turn the steering wheel; stereo is fine . Basically, with the car idling and your assistanting holding a steady RPM, dip the tube into the Seafoam can, and take out quickly, dip again and take out quickly, your assistant will complain it is starting to get harder to keep at that RPM and it feels like it wants to stall. Tell him to be patient (of course you know it will eventually). You will also see a big cloud of white smoke out the tailpipe and it might have a reaky smell to it, no biggiee, that's smoke includes carbon buildup. Continue the dipping process, until the car stalls (this is commonly known as hydrolocking), when I did this I had about a 1/3 of the Seafoam can left and I dumped the rest in the gas tank. Let the car sit for a while. Opinions vary here, as I left mine off for 15 minutes caz I was doing an a/c check on it, others say 5 minutes. Either way, by letting it sit, the seafoam helps soften up the carbon buildup. Take out the clear tubing and reconnect the vaccum line to the check valve. Start it up, you may or may not have problems doing this, but giving it gas helps, mine started up pretty well right away because of the time letting it sit, so I didn't need to give it gas. NOW the fun part, drive the living ˟˟˟˟ of the car and try to keep high RPMS, downshifting whenever possible. As you are driving you will see smoke coming out the back, that again is carbon buildup so don't fret. Try to drive for a while like on the freeway and go visit a friend or take the long way to a place. You should notice a change after all is said and done on your performance, my RPMs at idle went up and noticed a smoother idle, rather than before on a hesitating idle.

NOTES:
1) I used the brake booster line as that I think is one of the largest draws on your system.
2) By using a clear tubing, you can see how much you suck up so it's not all at once, you want to try and minimize too quickly of system feed, otherwise you'll hyrdolock too quickly and won't suck up enough Seafoam. If that happens, no biggie, let it sit for a bit and start up the car and continue the process.
3) Probably want to clean your TB after doing this with the directions others have mentioned on this board. I am going to do that this weekend. Just becareful when using a brush so you don't damage the TPS sensor on the throttle body. I always say this tip, as I have damaged it before on my old 4Runner.
4) Usually whenever I clean the TB, I install a new air filter at the same time, good preventative maintenance, especially since I usually do this once a year.

This my friend qualifies as the Upper Head Cleaning that you did for about $10 that would otherwise cost $100 at a dealership.

 

seafoam works great!!!!....i recently ran it through my crankcase and through the charcoal canister vaccuum line......i'm yet to get the deep creep for the throttle body, etc. also, i hear that it is good to put in the fuel tank, but i just chaged the fuel filter and i think it'd just loosen all the crap and clog up the filter......should'a done it before........and i didn't do this, but i heard it can jack with the o2 sensor, so it's not a bad idea to unplug them while you're blowing it out your exhaust...........

 

Isn't this stuff just like berryman's B-12

 

Mohammed, good post - thanks for the info. Where can I get this stuff? Autozone or someplace? Or do I have to get it off the web?

 

Uh one "M" hehe...

I got mine from Napa Autoparts for like $6 a can. Autozone or Kragen's/Schuck/Checker's won't have this in stock. The deep creep stuff, is also at Napa for about the same price, but personally I use STP Throttle Body cleaner for the TB.

 

Be careful when you do this. Don't use too much. I sucked quite a bit down the brake booster vaccume line and I snapped a rod in my engine. It sucked really bad. (No pun intended)

 

Is there a safer vacuum line on the 3.0 to use?