I have a 22-re (85 or 86) out of a motor home in my 88 P/U.
Thing used to run great, amazing acceleration/ mpg yada yada. (i think the rv's had a different cam?)

started running like diick out of nowhere one day, after my minimal mechanical knowledge was stumped i had decided i was just going to put a carb on it.

it was running like shiet until 2700 rpms, then would take right off like a turbo was spooled up. it was brought to my attention my o2 sensor was bad and when the ecm when into open loop it bypassed the o2 sensor.

i never put a carb on it, but i did tear my efi intake off.

I put my intake back on with a gasket set from auto zone, put it all back together and it ran even worse!

i turned to my handy dandy yota tech forum to realize it was a intake gasket leak.

tore it apart and put it back together, this time just with high temp RTV.

runs better than it did. still not right though.

now there is a nasty valve noise coming from the 3rd or 4th cylinder ( this is just from the naked ear)


idles fine and runs good for a little, then runs like crap, then runs good. spits and sputters sometimes. it has a mind of its own. will stall right out at low rpm, if i punch the gas it will run fine then idle down all the way to 0 rpms sometimes

is it possible that some rtv got stuck n a valve and it is making all the valve noise and the valve being open making the truck run weird??

i have a fsm on the way i ordered one on ebay, i am goig to give the valve clearences a check. if they are okay, what could the problem be? i

i can go more in depth with the trucks running issues if someone wants to know, the main reason for my post is about the possibility of rtv in the valves making it run crazy.

thanks alot, i love this website and could stay up til 4a.m. every night reading and learning more things!

 

You probably should have used a gasket on the intake manifold, instead of just RTV. When was the last time you did a complete tune up including the fuel filter ?, also check the timing, and adjust the valves, also check for vacuum leaks.

 

i changed the fuel filter when it started acting up the first time.

im not too awful sure how to check the timing.( it ran perfect before o2 and intake problems)

plugs and wires are good, i will dbl check the plugs in the a.m.

i elimitated the majority of emissions stuff so i dont have many vaccum lines to leak.

ill check the valves in the a.m. also, i found a downloadable FSM, too bad i have a hard copy on the way already!

 

How long did you let the RTV cure before you fired it up? Myyota makes a good point; I would've used a gasket. RTV doesn't like gasoline.

Checking timing is easy. Find the diagnostic port. On yours, I believe it's on the pass side wheel well behind the battery. Locate the Te1 and E1 terminals. Warm the motor up and jump those terminals with wire or paper clip bent in half. Idle should drop with throttle in idle position. Hook up timing light and go. Should be 5* btdc at 750rpm's for a manual, 800 or 850 for an auto.

You'll appreciate having a hardy copy. Don't know what download copy you have, but some of them aren't complete.

 

it cured at least a day or so. at the time i was working on the road so i would tinker around when i was home.

i was just reading up on the tps adjustment and noticed my throttle body doesnt have a dash pot or a stop screw.


think this could have something to do with the stalling out after i punch the gas?

heres a couple links for 30 second or so videos of my motor running

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0oLXMbKCGE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iw2noyCzSac