Crap. My 4Runner won't start.
#1
Crap. My 4Runner won't start.
Well, I seemed to of messed something up.
My headlights work, but none of the interior lights do.
No fuses are blown (that I know of).
Engine will not turn over from the key.
Any ideas? Haha, I always screw something up =p
My headlights work, but none of the interior lights do.
No fuses are blown (that I know of).
Engine will not turn over from the key.
Any ideas? Haha, I always screw something up =p
#6
Loucifer, you spelled your name wrong =) Also, my starter is fine. Unless it's possible for it to spontaneously blow up?
Yayfortrees. Sighhhhhh fine. Any tips on which specific ones to check?
Yayfortrees. Sighhhhhh fine. Any tips on which specific ones to check?
Trending Topics
#12
Ah, I missed it the first time. "AM1" the green 40A fuse under the hood is shot.
Good tip, tree =p
**edit-
The switch is for fog lights. It was tapped into my acc. line that runs to my stereo.
Good tip, tree =p
**edit-
The switch is for fog lights. It was tapped into my acc. line that runs to my stereo.
#13
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Upstate New York (Closer to Canada than NYC)
My real name is Lou, so Loucifer was a play on words. I checked my fuses. I think the solenoid got stuck in the starter because it started to pour out white smoke. Last I checked, the starter isn't designed to take that much electrical current for that long of a time.
#14
Cool, I'm glad you found it.
I would try to find a different circuit to run that from. I don't know what kind of current your fog lights will pull, but I'm guessing you won't want to pull that current away from your stereo. That accessory line is typically only for low current applications.
I would try to find a different circuit to run that from. I don't know what kind of current your fog lights will pull, but I'm guessing you won't want to pull that current away from your stereo. That accessory line is typically only for low current applications.
#17
Sorry about that Lou. I was telling Wilson to check the fuses.
The starter circuit from the battery to relay to starter motor doesn't really have fuses, maybe a fuseable link, but no fuses. I would disconnect, then test your relay using an ohmmeter. If that checks out ok, reconnect it and test DC Voltage at the terminal on your starter to ground. You should get 12 VDC while the key switch is on crank, 0 VDC with key on or off. If it smoked, yeah, it is likely shot.
The starter circuit from the battery to relay to starter motor doesn't really have fuses, maybe a fuseable link, but no fuses. I would disconnect, then test your relay using an ohmmeter. If that checks out ok, reconnect it and test DC Voltage at the terminal on your starter to ground. You should get 12 VDC while the key switch is on crank, 0 VDC with key on or off. If it smoked, yeah, it is likely shot.
#18
Wilson, I hear you on wanting the cleaner installation. I also like the idea of them being on a keyed circuit. Prevents the chance of accidentally leaving them on. But, my truck doesn't have a buzzer to remind me my headlights are on, and like most old vehicles, they run straight off the battery.
I guess the LED in the switch would tell you they're on, so I would run it straight from the battery, and make sure you are using a good clean, solid ground.
I guess the LED in the switch would tell you they're on, so I would run it straight from the battery, and make sure you are using a good clean, solid ground.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sandyota
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners
18
Feb 4, 2021 11:16 AM
1987, 4runner, awilson013, clack, engine, fixed, forerunner, headlights, hot, lights, runner, start, starter, warm, wont




