Thanks all, I've been reading for awhile, but nothing remotely close to whats happening or what I have done.

I completed the valve cover gasket change. My ride was leaking oil. The documentation I found here was very helpful.

When I start the truck, it idles fine. Once it is warmed up, I noticed the idle is much higher now 1100 rpms. On occassion the truck idle bounces up 500 rpms even when the truck is normal operating temp.

I took the plenum off, but when I reassembled, I am certain I put everything back the way it was. I was very meticulous. I took tons of pictures. I used all new gaskets except for the cold start injector. Dealer did not have in stock, however, the gasket was in very good condition so I reused it.

It idled and ran without this problem before I did the valve cover gasket replacement.

Any advise where I start? Many thanks...still learning.

 

Why would you take the plenum off to do the valve cover? My guess...
a/ you guessed wrong on a vacume line
b/ you might have a wire folded underneath the valve cover gasket- happened to me
c/ vacume leak somewhere
d/ forgot to plug in a sensor,or ground

 

Because you have to remove the upper intake(plenum) to remove the passenger side valve cover.

 

You should of just flipped the plenum over the pass fender. Ive had mine off about 6 times in the last 3 months. I only unplug 3 vac hoses.

 

have you resolved you issue yet?....

 

Coolant topped off?

 

its a vac leak some were, take some carb cleaner and spray it around near all the vacuum lines and any gaskets and the idle should rev up when you find the leak

 

This is good. Im learning. It so happens I have carb cleaner.

lol, Im ashamed to admit. I think vacuum lines are probably the rubber hoses that I disconnected from the plenum. I will try the suggestion with all the connections I removed. This is great suggestion. You are helping me learn. I can't express my gratitude enough. Im so grateful.

Please teach me if you have other great ideas. Many thanks

I will check the coolant is topped off. Last I checked it was.

 

Sorry- I'm thinking 22re.

 

Yes, this is a 3VZE engine with a plenum on top. I guess I could have left the plenum on and have it tilt to the left and held up with gatorade bottle, but it would have been tougher to work on the passenger side gasket. As a result, I just removed all the connections. In addition, I was going to change out the passenger side bearing cap cover.

I was able to completely resolve the idle bouncing up and down. Turns out, I did put all the hoses back correctly, but there were a few that I did not push in enough to make a good contact. That said, I sincerly believe the cause of the problem was that I didn not secure the hose firmly into the driver side valve cover. To the right of the oil filler cap there is a hose that connects to the cover. This was loose. All problem solved and the truck is working well now.

I wanted to share a few techniques I use when working with lots of connections. There is an orange tape painters use. I used this tape to number all the hoses and connectors. This tape holds real well. I number both sides of the connector before seperating. In addition, I use liquid paper. This is the white liquid which we used in school to correct mistakes on paper. I use it to dot the hoses. So I use one dot or two dots on both ends instead of tape. This is at times quicker than using tape. Last, I take tons of pictures. I use different angles and move wires and hoses around to get images deep in the engine. Pictures has saved me many times over. Take lots and lots of pictures.

Thanks everyone for all your help...Im am grateful. By the way, I plan to spray carb cleaner on the hoses still to see what actually happens.

 

Update: I was wrong. Turns out the problem was my Throttle Positioning Sensor. I replaced it and it seems to have solved the problem. I have driven 85 miles since the change and I have seen the difference. Although my idle is still high, at least it is not bouncing up and down. It is a stable idle - it sits at 1000 rpm. The TPS was $112 and it was painful to replace. I have a thread here that describes my ordeal. I tried to adjust my original TPS, but it was broken. Once I bought a new one, it was easier to adjust but I could not get the settings just right. I settled to the best I could.

Cheers.

 

This is happening to my truck right now! I had the valve cover gaskets done last week and this has been going on since.

I have sprayed carb cleaner on all vacuum lines and was unable to locate any leaks. How did you come to the conclusion it was your tps? I will has to look there now.

Does any one have any other suggestions?

 

I want you to take the time to read two links

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-205771/

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

Outlaw Mike did a writeup on throttle body. He said his coolant ports onthe throttle body was full of junk. However, this was not my issue. It was the TPS instead. I drove the truck around another 20 miles today. Still high idle. I did a timing belt change myself 6 months ago. Now Im starting to wonder if the timing belt I did is causing my high idle.

Good reading.

 

How long did it take to do this? I was told roughly an hour labour but I have a feeling it would be more than that.

 

Took me 3 days , but I have never done anything like this before so I took my time and made sure to follow the FSM. I imagine a shop could do it in 3-5 hours. Do a search, and you'll find all the info you need.

 

Yeah I read the FSM, didnt look like an hour job.
Maybe I shuold just take up their offer of one hour before they change their minds!!!