Hi this question is similar to:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...earings-97396/

I have a 97 T100 SR5 4x4 ext cab - 232,000 miles and going strong. Last year I replaced rear bearings and brakes because of a vibration and the worn bearing whirrr noise.

Now I have all-new front brakes as well because the vibration reappeared in front. The brakes were smooth for 2 months before the vibe returned with a noticeable front bearing whirrr noise. I took it back to the jerks who did my front brakes with warranty and they just insisted I needed to buy 4 new tires from them (surprise?). Tires don't make your rig feel like it's falling apart when you brake at high speeds. They basically refuse to consider the problem involved front bearings. Yes I took it to Midas (stupid stupid stupid I know) I just didn't want to bother with things as rusty as they were . At any rate, the rotors still look OK, and I replaced the drums in back with some new OEM Toyota drums after hearing a Midas horror story about a Tundra and cheap aftermarket drums.

So I've put together the shopping list with front innter/outer bearings, upper ball joints, oil seals and left refab CV axle I need and I'm thinking of doing it myself for cost of parts and cussage. I'm armed with the Chilton and every tool listed except a shop press. I hear of people hammering the front bearings in/out of the steering knuckle with a shim. That sounds doable...? I also know that I have the seeping CV boot clamp, and I'm looking at just swapping in a refurb replacement. I know the shop bill is ridiculous for a front bearing job, but the truck might not last much longer and I don't consider it worth $2000 of shop work. Maybe I should just get the knuckles off and take them to a machine shop for pressing? That should reduce the bill a lot.

Does anybody have experience with this or any tips? The Chilton is nice enough to show the process for 4Runner and Taco, but the diagram of T100 is slightly different - fewer oil seals? I also think it's funny that the Chilton forgets the "grease your bearings before install" step.

Any tips greatly appreciated. Pictures worth a thousand words! Also helpful would be reassurance that I'm probably tackling my vibration at the correct source?
Thanks!

 

FYI still concerned that new bearings and CV axle will fix my problem, but I found the embedded link very helpful.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/ar....jsp?id=186138

 

If it's under warranty...take it up with the manager. If there's no resolution with the manager, go up the chain.

I'd read up on that warranty real close though...

 

OK... OK... OK..... Started this morning on a full stomach. Got 'er propped up, wheel off, hub apart, caliper off*, bearings out, bearings in, as well as a new set of Napa rotors. Everything rusty as a constipated rhino. In fact, I think that's the new name for the truck - constipated rhino.

* After breaking a standard socket using my 3' persuader. Hitched a ride to hardware store for a metric impact socket set. Plus liquid wrench, I's good to go.

Then I had to get cocky and try to take off the upper ball joint. I ordered it as well cuz they were recommended by the Chilton. Two of the ball joint studs snapped during removal using a standard closed wrench, so I figured its time had come. Then I had to pick and pry through rust to get the cotter pin out of the bottom lock nut. Got that, had to drill a dotted line across the nut to make it move, and now I'm screwed... Ball joint is half out, can't get upper control arm up to take it out and put in the new one. Is there a trick involving the torsion bar to get the control arms separated? I'm down to an empty stomach and kind of losing it. Can't leave that truck jacked up in the basement forever.

Any veteran tips? Please help - gotta get my war paint/grease cleaned off in time for a hot Valentine's date tonight and I might blow my chances if I wreak of grease and humiliation.

Thanks

 

I put it all back together enough to drive and paid a visit to an independent mech recommended by a neighbor who found him on craigslist. OMG what a miracle worker. I pulled into his wee garage, he primed his compressor, and zip-zip everything I needed was done in 2 hours - except for passenger side bearings cuz I didn't have all the parts there. Also pointed out my shot passenger side sway bar link confirming the crick when I turn right. Picked up a sway bar kit on the way home. $45/hr labor rates - can't beat that. Especially when I helped him with computer problems and we bartered.

Thanks Trevor!

 

Thanks for this information. My T100 is having the same problem - gonna call around tomorrow for quotes, but I have a feeling I will be doing it myself.