okay so my trucks been running like total and now im sick of it. its also getting 11.5 miles to the gallon... 140 miles to a tank or so. (usually i get 220-250 miles to a tank). i might as well be driving my friends old k5 blazer. so i went out this morning, pulled the two codes stored..
code 12 RPM signal
code 52: knock sensor signal
so i reset the codes, made sure the computer was cleared, then went for a drive. going up my street the light comes on almost instantly. park it, then pull the code.
code 52: knock sensor signal.
now im not sure if its the sensor or the wire grounding to the insulation... any advice would be appreciated.

 

chances are its the knock sensor wire. be very very happy you dont have a 3.0 i just replaced my k.s. wire not much fun. upper and lower manifold, radiator and fan, timing belt, egr valve, fuel rails all had to come off. lossen altenator and powersteering pump. all to replace a 10 dollar wire. i believe your knock sensor is on the side of the block very easy to get too. i had the exact same symptoms you did night and day when i replaced the wire. i would start there replace your wire and start there. good luck

 

do i have to replace the wire from the ecu to the sensor? i dont understand the whole 'replacing the wire' thing

 

no has nothin to do with your ecu it plugs into your wiring harness un-plug it from the sensor and find the other end wich plugs into the trucks wiring harness the wire is probly 8-14 inches long somewhere around there (atleast myne was for my 3.0) heres were it is on your 22-re passenger side. hope this helps. i tryed and tryed but couldnt find a picture of the single wire that plugs into it

 

and what u can buy the whole wire from the dealer?

 

yep you can buy just the wire or the sensor either or. wire is like 10 bucks but the sensor is 180. if you do get it from toyota they will need your vin.

 

okay ill check there tomorrow... thanks weak

 

you guys r going to laugh your rear ends off.
know the problem the whole time? the sensor was LOOSE! barely hand tight! i replaced the connector, then went to plug it in, and for some reason i decided to make sure it was tight, and it moved! so i tightened it up, plugged it in, cleared the code, then went for a drive. no light! i have my power back! YAY!
for all those who are plagued by code 52: make sure the sensor is TIGHT before going to replace anything!

 

sweet glad you fixed it. that is kinda weird atleast you only had to spend 10 or 15 dollars. its amazing basically a micro-phone that listens too your motor makes such a big difference in power when its not working correct.

 

when you get through a whole tank, let us know what your MPG's jump back up to, would be an interesting comparison. Glad you get er straightened out.